Another noise thread,,
Yes I am having a slight knock coming from the engine. It just recently happened and because of this I have stopped driving the car. It doesnt sound loud enough to be rod knock but it sounds pretty damn close and has me worried. It sounds like its coming closer from the transmission side than the front of the engine. Let me go over what I have recently done after I heard the noise:
-Stopped driving the car
-Valve Adjustment
-Billmans Modded TCT
The oil level is good and I have NEVER ran it low on oil. I recently dropped the oil pan about a month ago (dropped a nut into it >_<) and there was no metallic peices or metal shavings that I saw in the pan. The noise goes away with rpms, only at idle. I might just take it to someone to have it checked out. It still runs great, will hit vtec with no problem, idles fine, no check engine light. The car does seem to shake alittle more then what it used to. Oh and before I forget heres the specs (kind of important..
-2001 AP1 103k miles bought it at 93k
-Just installed a new clutch (with flywheel, throwout bearing, everything done right)
-CC Stage 2 with Lightweight flywheel
-No other major mods besides a K&N
Its really had me bummed and I almost want to sell the car because of it.. I really dont want have to resort to that but its gave me nothing but problems since I got it. But I dont want to give up yet. I really dont make a lot of cash but whatever this car needs to get back on the road ill do. In the mean time I'll ride my bike
Anyways any help would be appreciated. I'd record a video but my cameras shot on my phone.
Edit: Sorry forgot to mention I did a compression test.. My tester was rough but I think it did the job 170-180-180-190
Nothing too crazy?
-Stopped driving the car
-Valve Adjustment
-Billmans Modded TCT
The oil level is good and I have NEVER ran it low on oil. I recently dropped the oil pan about a month ago (dropped a nut into it >_<) and there was no metallic peices or metal shavings that I saw in the pan. The noise goes away with rpms, only at idle. I might just take it to someone to have it checked out. It still runs great, will hit vtec with no problem, idles fine, no check engine light. The car does seem to shake alittle more then what it used to. Oh and before I forget heres the specs (kind of important..
-2001 AP1 103k miles bought it at 93k
-Just installed a new clutch (with flywheel, throwout bearing, everything done right)
-CC Stage 2 with Lightweight flywheel
-No other major mods besides a K&N
Its really had me bummed and I almost want to sell the car because of it.. I really dont want have to resort to that but its gave me nothing but problems since I got it. But I dont want to give up yet. I really dont make a lot of cash but whatever this car needs to get back on the road ill do. In the mean time I'll ride my bike
Anyways any help would be appreciated. I'd record a video but my cameras shot on my phone. Edit: Sorry forgot to mention I did a compression test.. My tester was rough but I think it did the job 170-180-180-190
Nothing too crazy?
Checked, mounts are ok in my book. I just replaced the spark plug and it seems better, but not fixed. I was trying to get ngks but none to be found so I went cheap and got the bosch 4-plus.. Not a fan but it was available. I now suspect valve train again, doesnt sound like rod knock to me at all. But im not a professional mechanic, but have a bit of mechanical experience. I only take it to the shop as a last resort. I dont get it, I swear I did the valve adjustment near perfect, torqued everything down to spec(dont want a nut to drop again!). I know these are noisy engines but mine was never this bad. I've only had it since august though. I am thinking everything is fine because I am way too paranoid with this car, but still. Im going to try to get a second opinion as soon as I can. The issue doesnt seem to be getting worse, but I am only test driving it a mile or so. I really wish I could record a video though. What do you mean by modt though? I am assuming a modded tct.
edit: Oh and I I failed to open the throttle when I did the compression test whoops LOL, just am now realising that. Would that greatly effect my results? Dont feel like doing it again if I dont have to >_<.. Probably should anyways.. Would of been the 3rd time today to remove the coil-packs/spark plugs. fml!
edit: Oh and I I failed to open the throttle when I did the compression test whoops LOL, just am now realising that. Would that greatly effect my results? Dont feel like doing it again if I dont have to >_<.. Probably should anyways.. Would of been the 3rd time today to remove the coil-packs/spark plugs. fml!
Yeah I'm about to look around for ngks today. Wish there was some way to get my money back ffs! Can plug/bad gas/oil (just changed, mobil1 10w-30) make the engine sound terrible? I know its a long shot but im trying to be optimistic.
Update:
-Redid valve adjustment
-Swapped plugs to NGKs
-Redid compression test the right way 210 - 210 - 205 - 225
Ran quieter after I redid the valve adjustment. Still making a knock though. The oil is right at the H, maybe its alittle too high.. I am definitely not burning oil though.. It really doesnt sound like rod knock but maybe it is. Again i wish I could record a video. Either drop the oil pan (dont want to do that again ugh! or take it to a mechanic. it still runs fine though :/ I keep thinking maybe the cylinder wall is scuffed.. I really should just drop the oil pan and take a look.. Maybe if I drop the oil down a bit itll run better? I havent been driving the car lately just around the block to warm up the engine. Doesnt really make the noise as much cold. Id say id here a knock 4 times a second or something like that.
edit: nvm messed up the compression test again, car was cold FML!
Maybe i should just get a second opinion now
-Redid valve adjustment
-Swapped plugs to NGKs
-Redid compression test the right way 210 - 210 - 205 - 225
Ran quieter after I redid the valve adjustment. Still making a knock though. The oil is right at the H, maybe its alittle too high.. I am definitely not burning oil though.. It really doesnt sound like rod knock but maybe it is. Again i wish I could record a video. Either drop the oil pan (dont want to do that again ugh! or take it to a mechanic. it still runs fine though :/ I keep thinking maybe the cylinder wall is scuffed.. I really should just drop the oil pan and take a look.. Maybe if I drop the oil down a bit itll run better? I havent been driving the car lately just around the block to warm up the engine. Doesnt really make the noise as much cold. Id say id here a knock 4 times a second or something like that.
edit: nvm messed up the compression test again, car was cold FML!
Maybe i should just get a second opinion now
Nevermind. Just drained the oil and found glittery gold flakes in it.. Im pretty sure I spun a rod bearing, ill probably just replace myself. I think I caught this real early, because it does not sound loud like any of the other videos. Id rather replace the rod bearings than a new short block anyday.. Can anyone tell me the next step? Really bummed out right now..
edit: and the reason I say I caught this early is because I pulled the oil pan not even a few weeks ago, and when it started to make noise I stopped driving it..
Also how the hell can I spin a rod bearing if I never ran it low on oil? This confuses the hell out of me..
Any good DIY for replacing while the block is in the car? I think I can get away with slapping a new set of bearings in there..
edit: and the reason I say I caught this early is because I pulled the oil pan not even a few weeks ago, and when it started to make noise I stopped driving it..
Also how the hell can I spin a rod bearing if I never ran it low on oil? This confuses the hell out of me..
Any good DIY for replacing while the block is in the car? I think I can get away with slapping a new set of bearings in there..
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Update for the one or two people that actually read:
I think I was deceived and the gold flakes were bubbles in the oil.. Just inspected all of the rod bearings and all seem good, no scoring on the crank or the inside of the connecting rod/rod bearings. There was alittle debris but I think that was from the oil pan sealant/metal shavings from it being smoothed out for the new gasket. The cylinder walls look fine, the only thing I noticed was slight rings at the bottom of the cylinder wall, was like that in all of them. I am assuming that is normal. Maybe the knocking is just me. Kind of annoyed i broke it all down just to find everything is normal. Atleast on the bottom end. This gives me some confidence atleast that the bottom end is in good shape. There was some discoloration on the outside of the rod bearing but I was told this is normal. They are all smooth.
What else should I look for while im down there? What else could cause the knock if the cylinder walls look ok and the rod bearings look fine? Can a slight knock become major after a while? Do these engines just have some piston slap? Again this noise is made when its hot not cold. Im going to try switching from mobil1 to castrol syntec. Could be the issue all along.. I live in texas so maybe the oil is just getting thinned out from the heat. Dunno somewhat lost on ideas at the moment. Looked everywhere for answers. Who has a film clip of a normal ap1 engine? Preferably taken from the passenger side of the block.
Thank you..
I think I was deceived and the gold flakes were bubbles in the oil.. Just inspected all of the rod bearings and all seem good, no scoring on the crank or the inside of the connecting rod/rod bearings. There was alittle debris but I think that was from the oil pan sealant/metal shavings from it being smoothed out for the new gasket. The cylinder walls look fine, the only thing I noticed was slight rings at the bottom of the cylinder wall, was like that in all of them. I am assuming that is normal. Maybe the knocking is just me. Kind of annoyed i broke it all down just to find everything is normal. Atleast on the bottom end. This gives me some confidence atleast that the bottom end is in good shape. There was some discoloration on the outside of the rod bearing but I was told this is normal. They are all smooth.
What else should I look for while im down there? What else could cause the knock if the cylinder walls look ok and the rod bearings look fine? Can a slight knock become major after a while? Do these engines just have some piston slap? Again this noise is made when its hot not cold. Im going to try switching from mobil1 to castrol syntec. Could be the issue all along.. I live in texas so maybe the oil is just getting thinned out from the heat. Dunno somewhat lost on ideas at the moment. Looked everywhere for answers. Who has a film clip of a normal ap1 engine? Preferably taken from the passenger side of the block.
Thank you..
I had something similar happen to me. It is great for about 5 minutes then it starts making slight knocking sounds and faint misfires (maybe backfires).
I've been having a problem with a misfire and rough sounding engine that wasn't causing a CEL. I tried everything and just the other day the CEL for the Knock Sensor came on. I reset the ECU and the CEL didn't come back (sounds and misfiring were still happening). However it was the first CEL I'd ever had so I checked it out anyway after getting advice from some of the guys on the board.
The sensor was broken but not completely. It looked ok until I touched it. That's when i realized it was broken. It nearly fell apart.
I think my misfire and rough sounding engine is due to predetenation because the knock sensor isn't retarding the ignition timing correctly.
It might be something to look at. From what other members have said, it might be broken if you've had the transmission, starter, intake manifold or head replaced.
Just something to check. I'm replacing mine tomorrow.
Knock sensor is located on the block, under the intake manifold, in between cylinders #2 & #3 (on the outside of the block of course).
Here's a link with great info and pics:
https://www.s2ki.com/...1#entry21224181
I won't know until tomorrow night if it solves my problems, but I'll let you know one way or the other.
I've been having a problem with a misfire and rough sounding engine that wasn't causing a CEL. I tried everything and just the other day the CEL for the Knock Sensor came on. I reset the ECU and the CEL didn't come back (sounds and misfiring were still happening). However it was the first CEL I'd ever had so I checked it out anyway after getting advice from some of the guys on the board.
The sensor was broken but not completely. It looked ok until I touched it. That's when i realized it was broken. It nearly fell apart.
I think my misfire and rough sounding engine is due to predetenation because the knock sensor isn't retarding the ignition timing correctly.
It might be something to look at. From what other members have said, it might be broken if you've had the transmission, starter, intake manifold or head replaced.
Just something to check. I'm replacing mine tomorrow.
Knock sensor is located on the block, under the intake manifold, in between cylinders #2 & #3 (on the outside of the block of course).
Here's a link with great info and pics:
https://www.s2ki.com/...1#entry21224181
I won't know until tomorrow night if it solves my problems, but I'll let you know one way or the other.
I replaced the knock sensor (that was broken) and the noises went away. The car runs much smoother and I don't get as much popping out the exhaust.
The popping is still there, but I think the O2 sensor might be fauled from the car running rich.
Anyway, good luck with your problem.
The popping is still there, but I think the O2 sensor might be fauled from the car running rich.
Anyway, good luck with your problem.
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