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I have a full inline-pro kit sitting in my house and just finished the stage 4 clutch install this past weekend. Next on my list is installing the 3mm headgasket. I have read the manual several times but would like to get the input from some fellow owners before I take my engine apart. Any advice, tips, or pictures would be greatly appreciated.
most important: make sure u got all the right tools...specially to get the crankpulley bolt off. make sure to go by the manuals specifications when untorquing/removing and mounting/torquing the headbolts (in order), if not you can warp the head.
everything should come off pretty easy. make sure to not lose or accidentally bend the dowels that guide the head to the block. also when removing the cams and valve train, make sure your rocker arms stay together, if not, the springs can pop out and the pins will fall out.
theres a trick to compressing the chain tensioner and removing. be carefull when compressing it and sticking a pin in it, cuz it if falls off, the tensioner will completely uncompress.
i did a full head swap when i had my RSX in my garage, took a couple of days because the crank bolt is a pain to get out. since you are taking all that off, you minus well stick a hondata img and get arp headbolts...
do it now before u decide to do it later and have to it all again!
Originally Posted by Billman250,Oct 3 2007, 01:59 PM
Why would he take the crank pulley off to do a head gasket? Don't
I just read through the manual 3 times and did not see anything mentioning the pulley being removed - Glad I don't have to.
When tightening down the head bolts, the manual says to torque to 22 ft-lbs and then something about 2 90 degree turns. Do I tighten to 22 ft-lbs then turn each bolt 180 degrees after? The manual confused me on this step so any clarification would be good.
Also, looks like a small amount of honda-bond is required around the edge of the chain case, is it needed anywhere else?
Billman, thanks for the tip about leaving the manifold in place. Do you have any other pics that you can share?
it says to turn it 2 90 degree turns, in sequence... Thats why it just doesnt say 180 degrees. And its two 90 degree turns if you are re-using your old bolts. If you use new ones, its 3 90 degree turns. Depending on the amount of miles on your motor, i would just get new ones to be safe.
Follow tightening sequence for all steps 1-3 (and step 4 for new bolts)
For old head bolts:
1 tighten all bolts to 22 ft-lbs.
2 tighten all bolts an additional 1/4 turn
3 tighten all bolts an additional 1/4 turn for a total of 1/2 turn when finished
4 for new head bolts, add an additional 1/4 turn for a total of 3/4 turn when finished
Hondabond around the chain case only.
Very important...a THIN coat of oil on the head bolt threads. If enough oil is allowed to pool into the bottom of the holes, you will crack the block from oil hydrolock.
Originally Posted by Billman250,Oct 3 2007, 06:07 PM
Follow tightening sequence for all steps 1-3 (and step 4 for new bolts)
For old head bolts:
1 tighten all bolts to 22 ft-lbs.
2 tighten all bolts an additional 1/4 turn
3 tighten all bolts an additional 1/4 turn for a total of 1/2 turn when finished
4 for new head bolts, add an additional 1/4 turn for a total of 3/4 turn when finished
Hondabond around the chain case only.
Very important...a THIN coat of oil on the head bolt threads. If enough oil is allowed to pool into the bottom of the holes, you will crack the block from oil hydrolock.
What's everyones thoughts on general head work whilst it is off? My head had done about 60,000K.
When I transferred my head to my new short block I checked it for straightness and milled it straight and also lapped all my valves. If course this required disassembly but you'd be crazy not to at least replace the old AP1 retainers and valve seals whilst you've got it in pieces.
So short of port flowing the head would anyone else agree that some general maintenance is in order?
10-02-2007, 04:51 PM
Anyone have head gasket install tips or pics?
