Nope, iphone4 actually. I've heard of the Torque app tho, seems pretty cool.

How could I check on the things that you listed after I check my O2 sensor and throttle cable?

I tried the 'bad clutch test' that one guy recommended me, then the next guy said his theory was BS. If you know of a correct way to test for a bad clutch then please feel free to inform me.

Anyway to check the loose flywheel and bearings without having to disassemble the motor even further?

If it's not the O2 sensor or loose throttle cable then I guess I'll be looking for glitter in the oil either by pulling the oil pan or would an oil filter analysis tell me this? I saved my filter from most recent change just incase.

If I do have to pull the oil pan, how hard would it be to check my bearings while the pans off?
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The O2 sensor puts out a certain type of voltage trace you look at with an oscilloscope (on the app). I'll see if I can find the tutorial.

I don't think you can do any tests for clutch and flywheel without taking it apart.

You can look at either rod or main bearings when you remove the oil pan, but I don't remember which.

I would remove the pan and see what's in it. If there are any metal shavings, you're toast.
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TOAST? As in??
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Toast....slang for done, gone, kaput, finished, SOL, etc.
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EEK

 

In regards to the valve adjustment, agreed, I may not have done it perfectly but was just checking for valves that were way out of spec to try and pinpoint my problem.

I'll check out the O2 sensor youtube videos that Mr.T spoke about..

Thanks a bunch for the O2 sensor link!

 

lap1, in direct address to your funny idle problem, i also found a good sized vac leak while i was removing my valve cover for my leak down test/valve job. now that you have the helm manual try tracing as much of the vac system as possible and see if you find anything loose. some people resort to spraying starter fluid around the motor
and listening for changes in idle. there are tons of youtube videos on finding vac leaks too.
if i were you i'd find a specialist that has dyno access. i'm new to them but it amazed me that after about 5 minutes my guy figured out a problem i'd been chasing for 3 weeks. i'd just hate to see you throw loot into a problem that doesn't exist.

 

lap1, in direct address to your funny idle problem, i also found a good sized vac leak while i was removing my valve cover for my leak down test/valve job. now that you have the helm manual try tracing as much of the vac system as possible and see if you find anything loose. some people resort to spraying starter fluid around the motor
and listening for changes in idle. there are tons of youtube videos on finding vac leaks too.
if i were you i'd find a specialist that has dyno access. i'm new to them but it amazed me that after about 5 minutes my guy figured out a problem i'd been chasing for 3 weeks. i'd just hate to see you throw loot into a problem that doesn't exist.
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thanks man!

will check O2 sensor, throttle cable, and vac leaks. if nothing, then ill start looking for a specialist with a dyno. but hell...i wasnt even able to find a specialist besides one with a dyno lol

 

Here is an excellent, really really good article on O2 sensors and how they work and how to test them.

http://www.autodiagnosticsandpublish...or-testing.htm

 

Here is an excellent, really really good article on O2 sensors and how they work and how to test them.

http://www.autodiagnosticsandpublish...or-testing.htm
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thanks david!

ill read up on this and do some research into how clutch systems work.

 

did some reading up on clutch systems yesterday and I'm now thinking that a malfunctioning clutch may be a problem, or the problem. anyone know how to effectively test a clutch system without dyno'ing the car?

 

ive been reading around and some guys with bad throw-out bearings are having similar symptoms as I am...

bad fuel economy
heavy buzzing sound and pedal vibrations on decel
clutch 'sticks' sometimes...ill press in clutch pedal and have to wait a second or two to be able to move the shifter
having to rev higher than normal to take off, sometimes up to 3500k :/

Maybe this whole time my problem has actually been a power transmission/clutch problem and I was thinking I was having motor problems that were causing my clutch to feel funny. Not sure which one was the cause and which one was the effect, just trying to shed some light on the situation.

let me know if im sounding like a fool or not haha

 

from one fool to another, no you don't sound like a fool, haha. I think that can very well be your problem.

Our clutches are not completely gone, so I guess that's why they weren't showing the obvious signs. Mine was due more to a bad pressure plate and if yours is throw out bearing related, it would kind of make since that we're not experiencing traditional slip/burning clutch smell, as the disc still has some meat on it.

My advice to you would be to get up with your local s2k community and seek out a guru, tell them what you've done so far and what you think it is, then let them take it from there. I don't think removing a clutch for inspection is that hard, but it almost doesn't make sense to pay for that labor but not install new parts. so besides the dyno, I have no answer for diagnosing our situations.

I'll def let you guys know how it goes once I get my s back on the road. Should be a little later this week.

 

Ageed. I believe the labor for the clutch is about twice the price of parts....