Do you have an android phone and a bluetooth OBDII adaptor? If so, you can use the app Torque to check your O2 sensor. But, that isn't the cause of our vibration through the clutch pedal. That could be caused by a bad clutch, loose flywheel, or bearings. Could be motor mount as well.

I think you're almost at the point of having a mechanic look at it.

 

Nope, iphone4 actually. I've heard of the Torque app tho, seems pretty cool.

How could I check on the things that you listed after I check my O2 sensor and throttle cable?

I tried the 'bad clutch test' that one guy recommended me, then the next guy said his theory was BS. If you know of a correct way to test for a bad clutch then please feel free to inform me.

Anyway to check the loose flywheel and bearings without having to disassemble the motor even further?

If it's not the O2 sensor or loose throttle cable then I guess I'll be looking for glitter in the oil either by pulling the oil pan or would an oil filter analysis tell me this? I saved my filter from most recent change just incase.

If I do have to pull the oil pan, how hard would it be to check my bearings while the pans off?

 

Nope, iphone4 actually. I've heard of the Torque app tho, seems pretty cool.

How could I check on the things that you listed after I check my O2 sensor and throttle cable?

I tried the 'bad clutch test' that one guy recommended me, then the next guy said his theory was BS. If you know of a correct way to test for a bad clutch then please feel free to inform me.

Anyway to check the loose flywheel and bearings without having to disassemble the motor even further?

If it's not the O2 sensor or loose throttle cable then I guess I'll be looking for glitter in the oil either by pulling the oil pan or would an oil filter analysis tell me this? I saved my filter from most recent change just incase.

If I do have to pull the oil pan, how hard would it be to check my bearings while the pans off?
[/quote]

The O2 sensor puts out a certain type of voltage trace you look at with an oscilloscope (on the app). I'll see if I can find the tutorial.

I don't think you can do any tests for clutch and flywheel without taking it apart.

You can look at either rod or main bearings when you remove the oil pan, but I don't remember which.

I would remove the pan and see what's in it. If there are any metal shavings, you're toast.

 

Nope, iphone4 actually. I've heard of the Torque app tho, seems pretty cool.

How could I check on the things that you listed after I check my O2 sensor and throttle cable?

I tried the 'bad clutch test' that one guy recommended me, then the next guy said his theory was BS. If you know of a correct way to test for a bad clutch then please feel free to inform me.

Anyway to check the loose flywheel and bearings without having to disassemble the motor even further?

If it's not the O2 sensor or loose throttle cable then I guess I'll be looking for glitter in the oil either by pulling the oil pan or would an oil filter analysis tell me this? I saved my filter from most recent change just incase.

If I do have to pull the oil pan, how hard would it be to check my bearings while the pans off?
[/quote]

The O2 sensor puts out a certain type of voltage trace you look at with an oscilloscope (on the app). I'll see if I can find the tutorial.

I don't think you can do any tests for clutch and flywheel without taking it apart.

You can look at either rod or main bearings when you remove the oil pan, but I don't remember which.

I would remove the pan and see what's in it. If there are any metal shavings, you're toast.
[/quote]


TOAST? As in??

 

Hey lap 1. It's been awhile since we last spoke. We seem to be having some of the same problems, power loss w/ no dtc's.
I tried every avenue and continued to come up empty handed, although I did verify that my motor was tip-top, I still had no explanation for the power loss. Loss was constant, but seemed to get worse the more I drove, especially city stop n go style driving.
I finally gave in and took it to a local s2k guy that moonlights as an s2000 specialist. He hooked me up to a dyno and immediately noticed that my clutch was slipping by just reading the charts from the dyno.
I just picked it up this Monday after he rebuilt my clutch. unfortunately I didn't get a chance to test the power because I was short two header to cat bolts and didn't wasn't to risk losing my exhaust going home, plus I wanted to give the clutch a couple of hundred miles before I shifted at wot.
I tried to test the clutch on my own, I tried every clutch slipping test I could think of including the one you mention of being bs. I had no clutch smell either. I'm assuming the clutch slippage test would work if the clutch was almost gone, but for me I had none of the traditional signs of a slipping clutch.

When he took it out he said the clutch disc and flywheel weren't that bad but the pressure plate was trashed, with heavy signs of wear and heat. I wish I knew how this translated into causing my power loss without showing traditional clutch slipping signs, but I'll have to just read up on how a clutch works to get a better understanding.

Like I said I have yet to give it a proper test but I'm almost positive that this was my problem. I'll update as soon as I return from vacation next week and get my exhaust squared away.

 

Hey lap 1. It's been awhile since we last spoke. We seem to be having some of the same problems, power loss w/ no dtc's.
I tried every avenue and continued to come up empty handed, although I did verify that my motor was tip-top, I still had no explanation for the power loss. Loss was constant, but seemed to get worse the more I drove, especially city stop n go style driving.
I finally gave in and took it to a local s2k guy that moonlights as an s2000 specialist. He hooked me up to a dyno and immediately noticed that my clutch was slipping by just reading the charts from the dyno.
I just picked it up this Monday after he rebuilt my clutch. unfortunately I didn't get a chance to test the power because I was short two header to cat bolts and didn't wasn't to risk losing my exhaust going home, plus I wanted to give the clutch a couple of hundred miles before I shifted at wot.

Before, I tried to test the clutch on my own, I tried every clutch slipping test I could think of including the one you mention of being bs. I had no clutch smell either. I'm assuming the clutch slippage test would work if the clutch was almost gone, but for me I had none of the traditional signs of a slipping clutch.

When he took it out he said the clutch disc and flywheel weren't that bad but the pressure plate was trashed, with heavy signs of wear and heat. I wish I knew how this translated into causing my power loss without showing traditional clutch slipping signs, but I'll have to just read up on how a clutch works to get a better understanding.

Like I said I have yet to give it a proper test but I'm almost positive that this was my problem. I'll update as soon as I return from vacation next week and get my exhaust squared away.

 

Nope, iphone4 actually. I've heard of the Torque app tho, seems pretty cool.

How could I check on the things that you listed after I check my O2 sensor and throttle cable?

I tried the 'bad clutch test' that one guy recommended me, then the next guy said his theory was BS. If you know of a correct way to test for a bad clutch then please feel free to inform me.

Anyway to check the loose flywheel and bearings without having to disassemble the motor even further?

If it's not the O2 sensor or loose throttle cable then I guess I'll be looking for glitter in the oil either by pulling the oil pan or would an oil filter analysis tell me this? I saved my filter from most recent change just incase.

If I do have to pull the oil pan, how hard would it be to check my bearings while the pans off?
[/quote]

The O2 sensor puts out a certain type of voltage trace you look at with an oscilloscope (on the app). I'll see if I can find the tutorial.

I don't think you can do any tests for clutch and flywheel without taking it apart.

You can look at either rod or main bearings when you remove the oil pan, but I don't remember which.

I would remove the pan and see what's in it. If there are any metal shavings, you're toast.
[/quote]


TOAST? As in??
[/quote]


Toast....slang for done, gone, kaput, finished, SOL, etc.

 

Sorry for the double post, for some reason I can't delete it on my phone. I do agree with what Dave is saying though. If you've never done a valve job then it's best to let a trained hand DI it or at least be there to show you what proper drag feels like on a feeler gauge. No offense if you have done this before, but I was glad I had someone watching over my shoulder when I did mine.

Also, YouTube 02 sensor test. There is tons of info out there on HP to properly diagnose a bad or lazy 02 sensor, but then again if I remember right you haven't thrown any O3 related codes. There's a username willieb66 that does a few good videos. He also shows how to test for a lazy O2 using a simple voltage meter.

Good luck lap1, like I said, I'll soon update with hopefully good results.

 

Agree on the valve job.

Even though I know that you just did it yourself, you really can't be sure about how much drag YOU thought was normal with the feeler gauge unless somebody showed you.

Regarding the O2 sensor, not all lazy upstream sensors will give a code right away.

Some people feel 02 sensors are a maintenance item at about 100,000miles regardless. So, mine is coming in the mail today.

I think I mentioned it before, but the best place I've found for O2 sensors is www.oxygensensors.com. My direct OE replacement upstream sensor was just over $65 shipped.

But, that's not your vibration problem.

 

YO MR.T!

Thanks a ton for checking back in. After driving to lunch today shortly after reading your post I'm pretty sure this may be a clutch problem if not any of the other things I am yet to check with the motor, just been swamped lately!

We are spot on with the driving getting worse after awhile and the city style stop n go driving making it worse and worse. After a good period of city driving, 30 mins or so, the shaking i feel in the clutch pedal, gas pedal, and shifter become drastically worse to where its a constant rattle and shake. At this point it also takes much higher RPMs to take off, sometimes up to 3k

I'm not exactly sure how a clutch system works either so if anyone here does, please feel free to shed some light on why and how the pressure plate could cause this.

No worries about the double post buddy, as long as your offering me a helping hand feel free to repost as many times as youd like!