Yes yes, this is what I was thinking of

 

All your symptoms can come from a bad thrust bearing. Do not go any further until this has been inspected, correctly, 100%

 

Find a qualified mechanic to do this correct?

 

So have you found a trustworthy mechanic now? Failing that I think it is something you could do yourself, although having said that it isn't something I've ever done before. So if I'm incorrect Mr Billman amongst others will let us know. What I would do is mount a DTI (Dial Test Indicator) somewhere on the radiator end of the engine block, with the needle on the crank pully. Then get someone to push the clutch in and out and watch how much the needle moves, this will tell you how much float you have in the crank. I'm not sure how much is bad, so report back here with the results. Obviously to do this you'll probably need to take out the air box, but you might be able to work around it. Hope this helps.

 

The manual says 0.45mm (0.018 inch) is the service limit.

 

If you need help doing this and haven't found a trusted mechanic, do you have any friends who are mechanical engineers? A good engineer will have a DTI and know how to use/mount it. Don't me tempted to mount the DTI on the body to check the float/end play, it should be mounted on the block.

 

So have you found a trustworthy mechanic now? Failing that I think it is something you could do yourself, although having said that it isn't something I've ever done before. So if I'm incorrect Mr Billman amongst others will let us know. What I would do is mount a DTI (Dial Test Indicator) somewhere on the radiator end of the engine block, with the needle on the crank pully. Then get someone to push the clutch in and out and watch how much the needle moves, this will tell you how much float you have in the crank. I'm not sure how much is bad, so report back here with the results. Obviously to do this you'll probably need to take out the air box, but you might be able to work around it. Hope this helps.
[/quote]


Seems fairly easy, we'll see what Billman says.

 

So have you found a trustworthy mechanic now? Failing that I think it is something you could do yourself, although having said that it isn't something I've ever done before. So if I'm incorrect Mr Billman amongst others will let us know. What I would do is mount a DTI (Dial Test Indicator) somewhere on the radiator end of the engine block, with the needle on the crank pully. Then get someone to push the clutch in and out and watch how much the needle moves, this will tell you how much float you have in the crank. I'm not sure how much is bad, so report back here with the results. Obviously to do this you'll probably need to take out the air box, but you might be able to work around it. Hope this helps.
[/quote]

OK GUYS...

I called 'Downtown Automotive' this morning, the place I called that argued with me about rev limits on ap1/ap2's etc. I wanted to see what he thought about my symptoms, being that he was the only shop that had agreed to work on my car. So I ran all the symptoms and parts changed by him. He says he's not sure what could be the problem, but seems to think it wouldnt be the thrust bearings. I had him explain why and he said that thrust bearings have tell-tale symptoms, knocking or clicking from bottom end and the motor seems to be in a bind. I told him my motor seems to strain real bad and he said the strain from bad thrust bearings would be extremly noticeable. He said bring the car in and he'll run some diagnostics for 60$, if I want to fix it myself, fine. If I want to have him fix it, he'll waive the diagnostics fee because 'hes interested in finding the problem also'. Seemed more like a good sales pitch instead of a compassionate mechanic, but hey im cool with any discounts!

Think I should have him check out the car?

 

So have you found a trustworthy mechanic now? Failing that I think it is something you could do yourself, although having said that it isn't something I've ever done before. So if I'm incorrect Mr Billman amongst others will let us know. What I would do is mount a DTI (Dial Test Indicator) somewhere on the radiator end of the engine block, with the needle on the crank pully. Then get someone to push the clutch in and out and watch how much the needle moves, this will tell you how much float you have in the crank. I'm not sure how much is bad, so report back here with the results. Obviously to do this you'll probably need to take out the air box, but you might be able to work around it. Hope this helps.
[/quote]

OK GUYS...

I called 'Downtown Automotive' this morning, the place I called that argued with me about rev limits on ap1/ap2's etc. I wanted to see what he thought about my symptoms, being that he was the only shop that had agreed to work on my car. So I ran all the symptoms and parts changed by him. He says he's not sure what could be the problem, but seems to think it wouldnt be the thrust bearings. I had him explain why and he said that thrust bearings have tell-tale symptoms, knocking or clicking from bottom end and the motor seems to be in a bind. I told him my motor seems to strain real bad and he said the strain from bad thrust bearings would be extremly noticeable. He said bring the car in and he'll run some diagnostics for 60$, if I want to fix it myself, fine. If I want to have him fix it, he'll waive the diagnostics fee because 'hes interested in finding the problem also'. Seemed more like a good sales pitch instead of a compassionate mechanic, but hey im cool with any discounts!

Think I should have him check out the car?
[/quote]

I don't mean any insult by this, but your 8 pages in and nothing! I think it's time to let someone else look at it. Downtown Automotives have given you a couple of options. Why don't you let them look at it but ask them not to do anything past the $60 they quoted until they've got your approval, and take it from there.

 

So have you found a trustworthy mechanic now? Failing that I think it is something you could do yourself, although having said that it isn't something I've ever done before. So if I'm incorrect Mr Billman amongst others will let us know. What I would do is mount a DTI (Dial Test Indicator) somewhere on the radiator end of the engine block, with the needle on the crank pully. Then get someone to push the clutch in and out and watch how much the needle moves, this will tell you how much float you have in the crank. I'm not sure how much is bad, so report back here with the results. Obviously to do this you'll probably need to take out the air box, but you might be able to work around it. Hope this helps.
[/quote]

OK GUYS...

I called 'Downtown Automotive' this morning, the place I called that argued with me about rev limits on ap1/ap2's etc. I wanted to see what he thought about my symptoms, being that he was the only shop that had agreed to work on my car. So I ran all the symptoms and parts changed by him. He says he's not sure what could be the problem, but seems to think it wouldnt be the thrust bearings. I had him explain why and he said that thrust bearings have tell-tale symptoms, knocking or clicking from bottom end and the motor seems to be in a bind. I told him my motor seems to strain real bad and he said the strain from bad thrust bearings would be extremly noticeable. He said bring the car in and he'll run some diagnostics for 60$, if I want to fix it myself, fine. If I want to have him fix it, he'll waive the diagnostics fee because 'hes interested in finding the problem also'. Seemed more like a good sales pitch instead of a compassionate mechanic, but hey im cool with any discounts!

Think I should have him check out the car?
[/quote]

This is fairly common practice. He'll try to figure out what it is, and there will be a fee for that. That fee is waived if he fixes it as well. He mentions that because the last thing he wants is for him to find out what's wrong, he tells you, and then you take the car and fix it yourself. He doesn't make much money that way.

If you trust them to know s2000's, then go for it. Even though they may not be S2000 experts.