AP1 running rough, HELP
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Originally Posted by LAp1' timestamp='1344536318' post='21925017
I can't set it up like that. the steering rack and airbox make it nearly impossible with the motor in the car.
I apologize, sucks being a newbie!
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From: Tampa
the amount of movement your looking for you will not be able to "feel" or see, your talking about 1 one hundredth an inch of movement. That is why you need the guage to let you know how much movement there is.
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quik word of advise, if you ask Billman to chime in and he does, listen to what he says and follow his advice first. he is not known on here as the S2000 hack, he is known as the go to guy 
.....for those that may not know, a hack is a want to be mechanic that should not own tools because he will break more than he repairs
.....for those that may not know, a hack is a want to be mechanic that should not own tools because he will break more than he repairs
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quik word of advise, if you ask Billman to chime in and he does, listen to what he says and follow his advice first. he is not known on here as the S2000 hack, he is known as the go to guy .....for those that may not know, a hack is a want to be mechanic that should not own tools because he will break more than he repairs
.....for those that may not know, a hack is a want to be mechanic that should not own tools because he will break more than he repairsThanks, but I'm well aware who he is haha
Like i said, i was stuck between a rock and a hard place. The mechanic at Downtown Auto thinks he knows it all, and its hard to get across to him that Billman is THE OFFICIAL, TRUSTED, CERTIFIED s2000 know it all. Especially when you know as little about mechanics as i do...speaking of, could someone guide me toward a good source to start learning about the basics of auto mechanics? I'm willing to do whatever I have to do to learn internal combustion etc...and obviously I'm starting to annoy you guys a bit with my cluelessness...Thanks
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UPDATE:
Removed airbox yesterday which gave me plenty of room to measure crank endplay. I mounted the magnetic base to the middle of the steering rack and put the pointer on the DTI dead on the center of the crank pulley bolt. Serpentine belt off, car in neutral, pushed the crank pulley as far toward rear of car as I could get it to go, ZERO'd DTI, pushed crank pulley toward rear of car again to make sure that DTI is fully ZERO'd out. It would drop from .000" to -.002" while I was pushing on it, then ZERO back out totally once I let pressure off the pulley. I put a pry tool between the crank pulley and the block and pried forward slightly. While I was applying forward pressure, the DTI would go as high as .011", which is still in spec, and once I stopped applying pressure it would even out at .008", which is plenty in spec, and way under the service limit.
I made a video with my iPhone that I can text message or email to someone, just to get an extra set of eyes on it. But in my opinion, my thrust washers seem to be totally fine
Removed airbox yesterday which gave me plenty of room to measure crank endplay. I mounted the magnetic base to the middle of the steering rack and put the pointer on the DTI dead on the center of the crank pulley bolt. Serpentine belt off, car in neutral, pushed the crank pulley as far toward rear of car as I could get it to go, ZERO'd DTI, pushed crank pulley toward rear of car again to make sure that DTI is fully ZERO'd out. It would drop from .000" to -.002" while I was pushing on it, then ZERO back out totally once I let pressure off the pulley. I put a pry tool between the crank pulley and the block and pried forward slightly. While I was applying forward pressure, the DTI would go as high as .011", which is still in spec, and once I stopped applying pressure it would even out at .008", which is plenty in spec, and way under the service limit.
I made a video with my iPhone that I can text message or email to someone, just to get an extra set of eyes on it. But in my opinion, my thrust washers seem to be totally fine
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UPDATE:
Removed airbox yesterday which gave me plenty of room to measure crank endplay. I mounted the magnetic base to the middle of the steering rack and put the pointer on the DTI dead on the center of the crank pulley bolt. Serpentine belt off, car in neutral, pushed the crank pulley as far toward rear of car as I could get it to go, ZERO'd DTI, pushed crank pulley toward rear of car again to make sure that DTI is fully ZERO'd out. It would drop from .000" to -.002" while I was pushing on it, then ZERO back out totally once I let pressure off the pulley. I put a pry tool between the crank pulley and the block and pried forward slightly. While I was applying forward pressure, the DTI would go as high as .011", which is still in spec, and once I stopped applying pressure it would even out at .008", which is plenty in spec, and way under the service limit.
I made a video with my iPhone that I can text message or email to someone, just to get an extra set of eyes on it. But in my opinion, my thrust washers seem to be totally fine
Removed airbox yesterday which gave me plenty of room to measure crank endplay. I mounted the magnetic base to the middle of the steering rack and put the pointer on the DTI dead on the center of the crank pulley bolt. Serpentine belt off, car in neutral, pushed the crank pulley as far toward rear of car as I could get it to go, ZERO'd DTI, pushed crank pulley toward rear of car again to make sure that DTI is fully ZERO'd out. It would drop from .000" to -.002" while I was pushing on it, then ZERO back out totally once I let pressure off the pulley. I put a pry tool between the crank pulley and the block and pried forward slightly. While I was applying forward pressure, the DTI would go as high as .011", which is still in spec, and once I stopped applying pressure it would even out at .008", which is plenty in spec, and way under the service limit.
I made a video with my iPhone that I can text message or email to someone, just to get an extra set of eyes on it. But in my opinion, my thrust washers seem to be totally fine
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Originally Posted by LAp1' timestamp='1344789997' post='21931131
UPDATE:
Removed airbox yesterday which gave me plenty of room to measure crank endplay. I mounted the magnetic base to the middle of the steering rack and put the pointer on the DTI dead on the center of the crank pulley bolt. Serpentine belt off, car in neutral, pushed the crank pulley as far toward rear of car as I could get it to go, ZERO'd DTI, pushed crank pulley toward rear of car again to make sure that DTI is fully ZERO'd out. It would drop from .000" to -.002" while I was pushing on it, then ZERO back out totally once I let pressure off the pulley. I put a pry tool between the crank pulley and the block and pried forward slightly. While I was applying forward pressure, the DTI would go as high as .011", which is still in spec, and once I stopped applying pressure it would even out at .008", which is plenty in spec, and way under the service limit.
I made a video with my iPhone that I can text message or email to someone, just to get an extra set of eyes on it. But in my opinion, my thrust washers seem to be totally fine
Removed airbox yesterday which gave me plenty of room to measure crank endplay. I mounted the magnetic base to the middle of the steering rack and put the pointer on the DTI dead on the center of the crank pulley bolt. Serpentine belt off, car in neutral, pushed the crank pulley as far toward rear of car as I could get it to go, ZERO'd DTI, pushed crank pulley toward rear of car again to make sure that DTI is fully ZERO'd out. It would drop from .000" to -.002" while I was pushing on it, then ZERO back out totally once I let pressure off the pulley. I put a pry tool between the crank pulley and the block and pried forward slightly. While I was applying forward pressure, the DTI would go as high as .011", which is still in spec, and once I stopped applying pressure it would even out at .008", which is plenty in spec, and way under the service limit.
I made a video with my iPhone that I can text message or email to someone, just to get an extra set of eyes on it. But in my opinion, my thrust washers seem to be totally fine
My MAP sensor upgrade and primary O2 will be in early next week, I'll get those changed myself and report back. I'll also be ordering my clutch parts and motor mounts today. Hopefully I can have everything in and installed this week.
Sidenote...I'm still having the squealing from the rear end that I mentioned a while back. I also mentioned it to the mechanic at Downtown Auto and he said the sliders on the calipers were dry and catching. I took all that apart yesterday and greased it up properly and I'm still getting the squealing. Could this be rear axle nuts?
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Originally Posted by paul2011s2000' timestamp='1344790827' post='21931151
[quote name='LAp1' timestamp='1344789997' post='21931131']
UPDATE:
Removed airbox yesterday which gave me plenty of room to measure crank endplay. I mounted the magnetic base to the middle of the steering rack and put the pointer on the DTI dead on the center of the crank pulley bolt. Serpentine belt off, car in neutral, pushed the crank pulley as far toward rear of car as I could get it to go, ZERO'd DTI, pushed crank pulley toward rear of car again to make sure that DTI is fully ZERO'd out. It would drop from .000" to -.002" while I was pushing on it, then ZERO back out totally once I let pressure off the pulley. I put a pry tool between the crank pulley and the block and pried forward slightly. While I was applying forward pressure, the DTI would go as high as .011", which is still in spec, and once I stopped applying pressure it would even out at .008", which is plenty in spec, and way under the service limit.
I made a video with my iPhone that I can text message or email to someone, just to get an extra set of eyes on it. But in my opinion, my thrust washers seem to be totally fine
UPDATE:
Removed airbox yesterday which gave me plenty of room to measure crank endplay. I mounted the magnetic base to the middle of the steering rack and put the pointer on the DTI dead on the center of the crank pulley bolt. Serpentine belt off, car in neutral, pushed the crank pulley as far toward rear of car as I could get it to go, ZERO'd DTI, pushed crank pulley toward rear of car again to make sure that DTI is fully ZERO'd out. It would drop from .000" to -.002" while I was pushing on it, then ZERO back out totally once I let pressure off the pulley. I put a pry tool between the crank pulley and the block and pried forward slightly. While I was applying forward pressure, the DTI would go as high as .011", which is still in spec, and once I stopped applying pressure it would even out at .008", which is plenty in spec, and way under the service limit.
I made a video with my iPhone that I can text message or email to someone, just to get an extra set of eyes on it. But in my opinion, my thrust washers seem to be totally fine
My MAP sensor upgrade and primary O2 will be in early next week, I'll get those changed myself and report back. I'll also be ordering my clutch parts and motor mounts today. Hopefully I can have everything in and installed this week.
Sidenote...I'm still having the squealing from the rear end that I mentioned a while back. I also mentioned it to the mechanic at Downtown Auto and he said the sliders on the calipers were dry and catching. I took all that apart yesterday and greased it up properly and I'm still getting the squealing. Could this be rear axle nuts?
[/quote]
I was told by "Honda", that these cars do suffer from sticking/seizing calipers, if not maintained regularly. That said, I haven't touched mine and have had no problems as yet, but it is on my to do list. It's a fairly easy, inexspensive job you can probably do yourself.