S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

AP2 A/C problem

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Old Jul 1, 2013 | 10:14 AM
  #1  
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Default AP2 A/C problem

The A/C in my S2000 (MY2004, 98,000 miles) stopped working recently (it worked earlier this summer). I tried to add freon but it leaked out almost immediately (compressor never turned on and the gauge never went above ~10psi.

I figured it was a big leak so I took it to Honda to have a A/C diagnosis done.

They told me that the system is contaminated and the entire system will have to be replaced. Compress, condenser, evap. all the lines etc.
Cost: $3800.

Has anyone else had this problem? I find it hard to believe that the entire system suddenly went bad.
I asked the tech what could have caused it and he said he didn't know but the entire system needs to be replaced..

Looking for some feedback from others that have had A/C problems in the S2000s.
Thanks
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Old Jul 1, 2013 | 10:18 AM
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Nope. That is nothing but a shady answer to get you to fork over cash. I am not sure what is wrong with your A/C system but it certainly does not need to be replaced entirely. I would first check all the connections for the low and high pressure lines. Two on the firewall by the header, two more on the condensor, two in front of the radiator on the dryer and one more by the front crossmember on the driver's side.

If there is no visible sign of a leak you could probably replace the o-rings and re-oil them.
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Old Jul 1, 2013 | 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by baZurk
Nope. That is nothing but a shady answer to get you to fork over cash. I am not sure what is wrong with your A/C system but it certainly does not need to be replaced entirely. I would first check all the connections for the low and high pressure lines. Two on the firewall by the header, two more on the condensor, two in front of the radiator on the dryer and one more by the front crossmember on the driver's side.

If there is no visible sign of a leak you could probably replace the o-rings and re-oil them.
Thanks for the feed back.
I talked to them about how they came to the conclusion that the entire system is bad. They said there were small metal shavings in the system therefore everything is leaking and needs to be replaced...
He said that there was no charge for the diagnoses which makes me feel like they didn't really take the time to diagnose the problem, because when I dropped it off the same person told me there would be a $150 diagnoses fee for the freon/dye used to diagnoses a leak.

I will check the lines/fittings this weekend and possibly take it to a different shop to have them conduct a leak test.
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Old Jul 2, 2013 | 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by ZainRacer
Originally Posted by baZurk' timestamp='1372702739' post='22641298
Nope. That is nothing but a shady answer to get you to fork over cash. I am not sure what is wrong with your A/C system but it certainly does not need to be replaced entirely. I would first check all the connections for the low and high pressure lines. Two on the firewall by the header, two more on the condensor, two in front of the radiator on the dryer and one more by the front crossmember on the driver's side.

If there is no visible sign of a leak you could probably replace the o-rings and re-oil them.
Thanks for the feed back.
I talked to them about how they came to the conclusion that the entire system is bad. They said there were small metal shavings in the system therefore everything is leaking and needs to be replaced...
He said that there was no charge for the diagnoses which makes me feel like they didn't really take the time to diagnose the problem, because when I dropped it off the same person told me there would be a $150 diagnoses fee for the freon/dye used to diagnoses a leak.

I will check the lines/fittings this weekend and possibly take it to a different shop to have them conduct a leak test.
Remove the blue cap that is behind the exhaust heat shield and depress the pin. If are comes out then it is pressureized and you could only have a small leak at best.
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Old Jul 2, 2013 | 04:42 PM
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I work on cars every day and and do air conditioning daily in the summer right now. Unfortunately, they are right. We call what you described as the black death. Its the internals of the compressor, bits and pieces, contaminated throughout the system.

I dont mean to be a debbie downer but you probably did this when you added freon yourself. The cans they sell have no way of metering how much you are putting in, without you knowing how much is already in the system. If you look, under the hood is a sticker for the AC system describing capacity. You went over the capacity and killed the compressor, then the rest of the system...

Rule of thumb is an AC system that has NO leaks will need to have a recharge every 3-5 years. A system with a small leak once a year. And when an AC recharge service is done, the tech should ALWAYS put dye in after charging so that any future leaks can be found.
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Old Jul 2, 2013 | 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by BLAQ&GREYs2k
I work on cars every day and and do air conditioning daily in the summer right now. Unfortunately, they are right. We call what you described as the black death. Its the internals of the compressor, bits and pieces, contaminated throughout the system.

I dont mean to be a debbie downer but you probably did this when you added freon yourself. The cans they sell have no way of metering how much you are putting in, without you knowing how much is already in the system. If you look, under the hood is a sticker for the AC system describing capacity. You went over the capacity and killed the compressor, then the rest of the system...

Rule of thumb is an AC system that has NO leaks will need to have a recharge every 3-5 years. A system with a small leak once a year. And when an AC recharge service is done, the tech should ALWAYS put dye in after charging so that any future leaks can be found.
That is good to know. I wonder why they couldn't tell him that.
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Old Jul 2, 2013 | 06:13 PM
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Well, where I work we try to be as humble as we can and explain what the customer is paying for. After re-reading it seems as thought the OP already had acknowledged that there was a leak. If it were my car, I would unhook both the high and low side @ the compressor and at the condensor and blow compressed air through the lines like crazy. Bolt it all together then, I would pay ~$80 to have a shop recharge the system WITH DYE IN IT. Run the system and then check for leaks with a UV light at special glasses. The compressor will NOT kick on if the system is empty. Once charged the compressor should be turning on, then off. If the compressor never turns on, hold your thumb over the a/c relay while a buddy commands the a/c on and off. If you feel no click, swap relays with a similar one then re test.
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Old Jul 3, 2013 | 05:51 AM
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Originally Posted by BLAQ&GREYs2k
I work on cars every day and and do air conditioning daily in the summer right now. Unfortunately, they are right. We call what you described as the black death. Its the internals of the compressor, bits and pieces, contaminated throughout the system.

I dont mean to be a debbie downer but you probably did this when you added freon yourself. The cans they sell have no way of metering how much you are putting in, without you knowing how much is already in the system. If you look, under the hood is a sticker for the AC system describing capacity. You went over the capacity and killed the compressor, then the rest of the system...

Rule of thumb is an AC system that has NO leaks will need to have a recharge every 3-5 years. A system with a small leak once a year. And when an AC recharge service is done, the tech should ALWAYS put dye in after charging so that any future leaks can be found.
This is the first time I have had to recharge the system since I bough the car ~ 3yrs ago. The reason I though it needed more freon was that the compressor wasn't turning on at all and from past experience with another vehicle if the pressure in the system is too low it wont let the compressor engage. When I tried to add freon to the system, it seemed like there was very little or no pressure in the system, gauge never went about ~10psi. The compressor didn't turn on before, during or after I tried to recharge the system.
After that didn't work I unplugged the low pressure switch and used a wire to "bypass" it, with the engine off I turned and key in the ON position. When I did this the A/C fan behind the condenser turned up/off when I turned the A/C on/off.

After that just to check if there was any pressure in the system I pushed down the valve in the low pressure port and there was nothing.

This lead me to believe there is a big leak somewhere in the system... I will unhook the lines from the compressor and blow pressurized air through them and check all the other connections and have the system refilled w/ dye. Hopefully that will reveal the leak(s).

If that doesn't work I guess I will have to start looking for people parting out their S2000s or converting them to race cars so I can buy their A/C system. Its nice having A/C but to me its not worth $3800!
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Old Jul 3, 2013 | 08:26 AM
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A while back the CRV had really bad issues with the compressor coming apart inside and indeed contaminating the whole system. For a while they were replacing the entire system under warranty. I've had to fix a few and have gotten away with doing a new compressor, receiver dryer, and desiccant. It all depends on have much contamination you have. Try and google honda hvac tsb
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Old Jul 3, 2013 | 01:26 PM
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A shelled compressor requires replacement of most of the downstream components. Those chunks of what used to be compressor get stuck in the passages in the condenser, evaporator,orifice tube/TXV and drier. If you don't replace all the parts and flush out the hoses those chunks will begin to break loose into the new system and may shell your next compressor in a short time. It is also imperative you measure the oil in the system and replace it exactly into a sealed system that has been vacuumed down properly. Best left to the professionals who have the proper equipment.
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