Anybody ever have to replace the fuel feed line on an AP2? Just took her out of the garage after a winter rest, and she was squirting gas on the ground. Traced to rodent damage on the fuel feed line. Three spots, so a splice is not a great option.

The Honda Part # is 17707-S2A-A51. Of course, it is out of production, and not available at any online source I've found. Thoughts, rocks to look under, or pointers to a source would be greatly appreciated.

The other thought would be, can any other Honda fuel feed line could be made to work, possibly with a little surgery.

 

Try https://www.ebay.com/str/milanhondaparts. Quick Google search showed they have Honda fuel hoses for several models for sale on eBay and may be able to help you. (No experience with them just what Google found looking for Honda fuel hoses.)

-- Chuck

 

I appreciate the 'heads up.'

They have an AP1 fuel feed line, but not an AP2 version. From what I understand, the AP1 has an extra return line, that is not present on an AP2. However, what Milanhondaparts is showing is just the feed line.

I can't find a good enough photo of the AP2 version to figure out if the AP1 feed would be okay. It is at a local shop, and I have yet to see it out of the car.

 

Yep, the AP2 fuel system is "return-less" at least the late DBW cars (2006+).

-- Chuck

 

I'm seeing this available from Amayama. It will come directly from Japan (and is often way cheaper than local dealers)

https://www.amayama.com/en/part/honda/17707s2aa51

 

BoogBoi89,

Appreciate the 'heads up.' I ended up making my own, custom formed nylon fuel line. I used some PA12/ETFE tubing that my mechanic had in stock. Looked and measured identical to the original Honda tubing.

I first cut an appropriate length, about 10cm longer than I needed, then filled the center with some very flexible, silicone insulated, electrical lead wire. I seem to remember it labled 10AWG. The most important point is the wire filled >90% of the tubing ID. Had to lubricate the line with a little Dawn dish soap to get it to slide through. There was about 5cm extra sicking out each end.

Now for the fabrication trick. I filled a 10" cast iron skilled about 80% full of fine playground sand, and put it on the stove to heat up. It took some time to drive off the moisture in the sand. Stirring it around with a larger fork while it was heating up helped. Once dry, I adjusted heat until I got in the 275-300 deg F range, as measured with an instant read kitchen thermometer moving in the sand. Once stable, I was able to force a mild bend such that I could move the radiused section back and forth in the hot sand until I felt it 'soften.' Be careful, this only takes 5-10 seconds. By 'soften' you will feel the spring back from manually bending the line disappear. Quickly remove from sand, hold in approxiate shape, plus a little extra for spring back, then run under cool water to set. In the end, I was able to replicate the original 6 bends close enough that the mechanic said the final product fit like the original.

FWIW, I was able to remove the original fittings, although the mechanic used his own ends.

FWIW, the llne I used was labled FoMoCo (for Ford Motor Company) and was stamped 2018. I can't find any more of this line, although Parker NB8X1 is the proper metric stuff (8mm OD x 6mm).

Might make a couple extra up, just for fun.

 

Great trick, thanks for the share.
I suspect we will be resorting to these methods going forward as the original rubber wears out and replacements are discontinued by the OEMs