So I tried to get the nuts off with a torque wrench. The wrench's max settings are 250lb-ft, but it kept clicking before I could even get it off. Time to get a breaker bar or are my nuts torqued enough?

 

You should under no circumstances be using a torque wrench to loosen a fastener.

For the axle nut it's best to use a 3/4" drive breaker bar or ratchet.

 

Use a breaker bar, 3/4" drive or larger. And you will probably need to use an extension(a pipe) on the breaker bar handle (typically, not a recommended way to use the tool). Torque wrenches are not intended to be used to remove nuts.
To torque the nuts, reuse the nut locker ring, reference the original, factory indention and use the breaker bar/pipe to turn the nut past the original locker indention 15 to 20 degrees. Re-stake the nut locker. Do a search for Billman's detailed instructions.

 

I bought this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GRIP-40-Long...efaultDomain_0

Charge other S2K owners to do theirs for $15(or equivalent currency, beer, donkeys, wives), after you do 3 cars it will have paid for itself, at least that's what I did.

This with a 36mm socket makes short work of the axle nuts, you won't even need an extension. As a bonus, if you get a 19mm socket you'll also have something to remove the crank pulley if you so ever need to change it.

 

The one I purchased looks very similar (probably the same with a different name), but I was able to buy it locally since I'm rather impulsive and impatient . Here's the link: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...2234_200382234

 

You will not be able to torque the nut to 250 ft-lbs with a standard size 1/2" breaker bar. It's not possible for a human to create that force with only a ~1 ft. radius for leverage. You will need an extension bar or a much longer handle, guaranteed.

And yea, son't use a torque wrench to break things loose mang a 1/2" breaker bar will come in very handle fairly frequently if you work on your car once or a couple times a years

 

If you don't mind spending the money you can get a 3/4-inch drive 3-foot breaker bar from Princess Auto, and get a corresponding 36mm socket which they also sell. It works wonders. You don't really have to worry about torqueing the nut with this setup , just turn it until it bottoms out and stops moving. It is generally 181 foot lbs plus an additional turn of about 67 degrees. This tool makes short work of the task.

 

HF 3/4 drive ratchet kit is on sale from time to time for $50 (with email coupons).

Includes the socket we need.

With a section of cast iron pipe (Home Depot), its easy enough to remove the nut.

Use a torque wrench to reach the 180 whatever Billman spec'ed initial torque, then use the 3/4 drive to turn it the remaining degrees.

 

A 3/4 breaker bar would do you wonders for this. I used a 1/2 breaker bar and was able to do it but it seemed like it was at its limit and was going to snap at any second. I used a floor jack handle extension and the breaker bar was flexing a lot the whole way through.

 

x2

This is the correct revised method apparently