There are many threads on recommended axle (or as Honda calls them, driveshaft) nut torque.

Is there by now some agreement on the correct value? If so what is it?

Various threads don't agree. Everyone does seem to agree that many cars were delivered with nuts not tightened even to factory spec, and that the original factory spec of 180 is not enough. But beyond that, for recommendations I have found threads that say

220 = updated factory spec

240 = updated factory spec

200 plus 60 degrees Pinned thread HERE second item under "All." This is the only one I found in a s2ki Forum Reference section.

All in one unpinned thread: 180 plus 60 degrees in the intro, or 150 to 180 plus 60 degrees in step 4-5, or 60-70 degrees past factory torque (factory value not stated) under "torque spec" further down, HERE

In that same thread one estimate of 400, and one measurement by torque wrench of 380-400 "when i did it." (which is a bit vague on "it")

No one gave a clean torque recommendation above factory spec, only X plus 60.

 

200 plus 60 degrees is right about where you want to be.

Good write up here:

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/929...e-nut-tsb-diy/

 

After torquing the nuts three times I finally realized what is happening. I could not understand how that nut was working loose with the locking tab holding it. I realized that we are compensating for wear in the bearings. The nut is not working loose. The bearings are wearing. Of course after torquing the nut three times the bearings were so far gone that I had to replace the hubs also. I would suggest tightening the nuts no more that two times and then replace bearings so you will not have the added expense of replacing the hubs too.

 

I don't think bearing wear causes the nuts to come loose; the inner races contact and therefore determine bearing preload. I think the nut probably loosens due to creep.

http://en.wikipedia....ep_(deformation)

 

Bearing wear has NO effect on the axle nut torque. The hub, axle, and inner races are one clamped piece. Even if the ball bearings fell out, it does not effect the torque of the nut.

Second, the nut is not coming loose.

With insufficient torque, the inner races have a spiral galling effect on the hub (picture a quarter spinning on a mirror as it comes to rest). This allows the race to walk, gall the hub, and eventually ruin the bearing.

 

Thanks.

I have never had a nut loosen. I'm replacing failed axles and just wanted to check the latest torque recommendation.

The link that Billman250 gave is the same one as the second one I gave. The one that says 180 plus 60 or 150-180 plus 60 or "factory plus 60 or 70." In any case it's mostly a tutorial about how to do it which I don't need. (It also gets confused about using "factory" to mean both "as delivered" and "tightened to specification," which we know was often no the same.)

 

So when you tighten the nut without greasing it you'll arrive at the original factory location, roughly

when you put grease on the nut face, you can achieve another 60 degrees from there. that is the final resting place for the nut


there is no torque number cause most people dont have torque wrenches for 200+ ftlbs

 

If you are looking for a number, it is in the 330-360 range.

And yes a torque number is useless to 99% of members here.

 

OK, but who would do that? One of the basic rules of correct torque for threaded fasteners is that "grease" should be applied to threads and load bearing faces. Of course by "grease" I mean anti-seize compound, not bearing grease, motor oil or WD-40.

 

If I am not mistaken, in this case grease is applied only to the load bearing face of the nut, not the threads. Most people here are going with the 60 degrees past the 180-200 torque starting point no matter what. Actually pretty easy to do. The first time I tried it I went substantially past it and had to redo it for fear of snapping off the spindle.