Honda apparently.

 

I think most torque specs are for clean, dry threads. In this case, the face of the nut makes such a huge frictional area that the grease simply allows for an easier time achieving proper fastener preload.

In all reality, the amount of force required to achieve fastener preload is irrelevant. 60* of rotation will provide x amount of fastener stretch which equates to y amount of fastener stretch. Based on the elastic property of the material, a specific clamp force is provided.

 

If all parts are new with original coatings intact, then OK. If not, then any added and/or irregular friction from loss of coatings, wear, dings, pits, oxidation, galling, etc. should be offset with lubrication on all sliding surfaces. Anti-seize stays put, will not dry out and harden to glue, and protects from moisture, so is a better choice than lubricants intended for other uses. There is certainly no reason not to use it.

Then why do we have torque wrenches?

which says x=y. What?

The increase in clamping force resulting from a 60 degree turn will vary with the Young's modulous of the material. And with the thread pitch Metric threads >=8mm have at least three available pitches for each diameter. And the range of pitches varies with diameter.

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This 60 degree business reminds me of the shade tree mechanic's rule for torque that I've heard for decades: Take up all slack, then one more face.
Mostly intended to prevent snapping off small bolts on covers, etc. Usually OK for bolts stressed only in shear.

 

That Honda undertorqued axle nuts is well documented. Presumably it was not intentional.

So amend my comment to "Who would do that intentionally?"

 

nevermind, not worth it lol

 

http://www.boltscience.com/pages/tighten.htm

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Mis-typed that. X amount of angle=Y amount of fastener stretch/tensile force. Pretty simple kinematic concept. Given that you stay out of plastic deformation, I would think that fastener preload in this application would be very easy to replicate even if you factor in Young's modulus. Feel free to test it and provide results.

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We have torque wrenches because it is the most time and cost effective method that is "good enough". It isn't feasible for most people to measure bolt stretch and using a torque wrench, more often than not, gets you in the ballpark.

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The most critical fasteners in the engine (connecting rods and main bolts) call for the angle method.

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This is a ridiculous amount of thought put into something that has plenty of empirical evidence to prove that it works.

 

There are also plenty of torque charts based on material/diameter if you must hear a click.

http://www.portlandbolt.com/technica...que-chart.html

 

Axle replacement completed with no complications. Thank you to Billman250 for the current recommended torque values.

 

Might want to update that then since you'll be snapping axle stubbs according to you. Close the thread but at least have the decency to post the correct information instead of leaving this a guessing game where no one knows who's correct. I have a spare axle I'll put my money where my mouth is and settle this once and for all.

 

What do you want to update?