So I was just swapping my CV buckets to cure a rear end vibration (hopefully) and in the process of putting things back together, neither side castle nut wants to go back on, looks like the threads on the end of both ball joints are jacked up pretty good. Not sure how this could have happened, I used a separator, no hammering or anything. Regardless, anyone have any ideas of the fastest way to get this resolved?

Do I actually need to just get new rear lower ball joints? Looks like honda only sells the knuckles if true..

 

1997 Accord front ball joints are the same as S2000 rear lower ball joint

 

This just happened on Friday, while helping a friend swap axles before a mountain run.

The separator distorted the bottom threaded portion of the balljoint when overcoming the taper seat. We were able to taper off the first few threads of the balljoint with a Dremel and get the castle nut on. Depending on the severity of the thread distortion, this may or may not be an option for you.

 

Thanks guys, I'll give that a shot and see if I can get those castle nuts on.

If I should need to replace my lower ball joints though, can I press the old ones out and new ones in without removing the entire knuckle? Seems like a ball joint press kit should be able to do it, no?

 

How bad are the threads? if it can be saved, maybe time to buy a metric tap/die set or rethreading set. I have a couple sets and they've saved me in many problematic situations like this. If the damage is localized to the last couple threads, you can cut the joint shorter or shave off the bad threads as mentioned already. All else fails, ball joint replacement is your last option.

Note: If Honda doesn't sell the joint separately, usually it means the joint is a one-time press fit. I had this issue with the front lower ball joint on my RSX and an eBay joint that said it was for the RSX but didn't come with a groove for C clip. So just be aware when you are shopping.

 

a ball joint press should be able to do it while it's on the car, granted there is enough room for the tool and that you have the correct size press adapters and receiving cups. Sometimes you have to get creative and use sockets or cut pieces of piping from the hardware store.

 

Yeah, it's just the threads at the end, looks like it's fine past the cotter pin hole, so rethreading is definitely something to consider. On the same token, the car has 140k so I'm thinking I might as well just replace the ball joints at this point, as annoying as that might be. Looks like the 97 honda accord front ball joints do in fact fit, or there's some from ballade for $50 a piece that I could use. Just need to figure out how to press this thing out now.

 

Front Upper or Lower?

 

When breaking ball joints, remove a lower engine mount nut (very easy access) and thread it on to the ball joint stud. Make the nut flush with the ball joint thread. It will support the drilled section. You’ll never deform another again with the breaker tool.

 

You can get a thread file for about $20. Google "thread file"

Eastwood has a "universal thread repair tool" for about $60.

Or make your own and try this: Get a nut with the correct threads. Cut it in half. Place the cut halfs in position on the good threads & clamp them together (there'll be some space due to the saw's kerf). Back the clamped-together nut off and it'll straighten out the damaged threads keeping them aligned with the good threads.