Ball joint seperator ??? Alternator??? HELP!!!
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From: Where there's lots of snow...
Anyone know the rough cost for a ball-joint seperator tool? I can't get my lower ball-joint on my integra off.
My integra also cranks, but won't start...do you guys think it's the alternator that is bad? My wife was driving the teg and it died on her in the middle of an intersection. After that the car cranks, but will not start. You guys/gals have any idea?
My integra also cranks, but won't start...do you guys think it's the alternator that is bad? My wife was driving the teg and it died on her in the middle of an intersection. After that the car cranks, but will not start. You guys/gals have any idea?
Originally posted by S2K
My integra also cranks, but won't start...do you guys think it's the alternator that is bad? My wife was driving the teg and it died on her in the middle of an intersection. After that the car cranks, but will not start. You guys/gals have any idea?
My integra also cranks, but won't start...do you guys think it's the alternator that is bad? My wife was driving the teg and it died on her in the middle of an intersection. After that the car cranks, but will not start. You guys/gals have any idea?
Do not use a pittman arm or anything like that!!! It will destroy the rubber boots on your ball joint.
Buy a 2-arm gear puller from Sears (Harbor Freight crap is not strong enough, use a craftsman puller). File the point down, but not completely off. This should separate the joint without any damage to the boot. But be careful, if you have too much point on it, the ball joint can start to collapse where the holes are drilled for the cotter pin. Then you'll have a hell of a time screwing the castle nut back on.
Buy a 2-arm gear puller from Sears (Harbor Freight crap is not strong enough, use a craftsman puller). File the point down, but not completely off. This should separate the joint without any damage to the boot. But be careful, if you have too much point on it, the ball joint can start to collapse where the holes are drilled for the cotter pin. Then you'll have a hell of a time screwing the castle nut back on.
It's really very easy. And the tool is not expensive.
I've used many different arms and ball joint separators and I have NEVER found one that did not either damage the boot or squeeze out all the grease. It's an inherent flaw in the design - regardless of size.
I've used many different arms and ball joint separators and I have NEVER found one that did not either damage the boot or squeeze out all the grease. It's an inherent flaw in the design - regardless of size.
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Originally posted by marcucci
Well, I've done 4th/5th gen springs at least 20 times, and haven't damaged a boot or squeezed out the grease once. If the tool is sized right, it will NOT be a problem.
Well, I've done 4th/5th gen springs at least 20 times, and haven't damaged a boot or squeezed out the grease once. If the tool is sized right, it will NOT be a problem.
You really only need to separate the ball joint to remove the axles.Anyway, if you look at your service manual, the tool Honda recommends using to separate the ball joint is a Honda tool and is very expensive. A 2-arm gear puller works exactly the same way and only costs $20.
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mazdaspeed00
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