Battery Disconnect Switch (On / Off) Help
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11
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Battery Disconnect Switch (On / Off) Help
Hello All
I'm in need of some help. Over the last few years I've been driving my s2k less and less. After starting a project to replace the tan interior in my vehicle to black the battery in my car is now dead. This is the 2nd time I've let the battery die and let the car sit for long periods of time without turning over. (I already know this is not good for the car)
A friend suggested I get a battery disconnect switch so when I intend not to drive the car for longer periods of time I can without killing another battery.
After researching disconnect switches there are a lot more variables when considering a switch than I originally thought.
I know there are switches that can kill power so the car can not be started but the door remotes / radio presets are not lost through a secondary loop vs killing all power. And there are switches that are rated for certain amps.
I really have no idea what is the best solution for the s2k.
Any suggestions would be helpful.
Thank you.
I'm in need of some help. Over the last few years I've been driving my s2k less and less. After starting a project to replace the tan interior in my vehicle to black the battery in my car is now dead. This is the 2nd time I've let the battery die and let the car sit for long periods of time without turning over. (I already know this is not good for the car)
A friend suggested I get a battery disconnect switch so when I intend not to drive the car for longer periods of time I can without killing another battery.
After researching disconnect switches there are a lot more variables when considering a switch than I originally thought.
I know there are switches that can kill power so the car can not be started but the door remotes / radio presets are not lost through a secondary loop vs killing all power. And there are switches that are rated for certain amps.
I really have no idea what is the best solution for the s2k.
Any suggestions would be helpful.
Thank you.
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 787
Likes: 4
From: the slums of south carolina...
Originally Posted by King Tut
I think a better solution is a trickle charger.
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,244
Likes: 4
From: Northern KY
I've actually started looking at this recently as well, as I'll be going to a lightweight battery soon.
A trickle charger is going to be the best option if you can't be bothered with inputting the radio code & presets each time. That said, it's a bit of a waste of energy if you aren't going to be using the car for a very long period. Also, key fob programming isn't lost when the battery is disconnected (in the key fob or the car).
Getting a switch with the bypass circuit to keep the car energized, maintaining your radio presets etc will not fix your issue. It is exactly that small parasitic drain that is killing your batteries. You will want the battery 100% disconnected from the car to preserve it.
Something to keep in mind is that with the battery disconnected, the ECU will need to relearn its fuel adjustments the first time you start the car. Not a big deal at all, just start the car with all of the accessories turned off, and let it idle until it's up to temperature - about 5-10 minutes. I do this seasonally, or when I travel a long way to an area with significantly different temperature or elevation.
My recommendation would be a 150+ amp disconnect switch without the bypass circuit. Write your radio code & presets on a scrap of paper that you keep near, or in, the car. Let's face it, the last time a radio was stolen from one of our cars was probably a decade ago. It's not like they're very good anyway.
To clarify - something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-M...gy_auto_text_y
A trickle charger is going to be the best option if you can't be bothered with inputting the radio code & presets each time. That said, it's a bit of a waste of energy if you aren't going to be using the car for a very long period. Also, key fob programming isn't lost when the battery is disconnected (in the key fob or the car).
Getting a switch with the bypass circuit to keep the car energized, maintaining your radio presets etc will not fix your issue. It is exactly that small parasitic drain that is killing your batteries. You will want the battery 100% disconnected from the car to preserve it.
Something to keep in mind is that with the battery disconnected, the ECU will need to relearn its fuel adjustments the first time you start the car. Not a big deal at all, just start the car with all of the accessories turned off, and let it idle until it's up to temperature - about 5-10 minutes. I do this seasonally, or when I travel a long way to an area with significantly different temperature or elevation.
My recommendation would be a 150+ amp disconnect switch without the bypass circuit. Write your radio code & presets on a scrap of paper that you keep near, or in, the car. Let's face it, the last time a radio was stolen from one of our cars was probably a decade ago. It's not like they're very good anyway.
To clarify - something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-M...gy_auto_text_y
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,783
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you dont want a trickle charger. you want a "Maintenance charger" its kinda semantics but lots of trickle chargers dont auto shut off and they are 6volts not 12.
i have a 4 dollar one from harbor freight and it works quite well from october to may all year. in fact I have two of them for different cars.
i have a 4 dollar one from harbor freight and it works quite well from october to may all year. in fact I have two of them for different cars.
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 13,829
Likes: 1,550
From: Chesterfield VA
You can find this at any auto parts store. Goes on the negative battery post. I use one when I park my Expedition at the airport for more than a week (or in below-zero weather). Fool proof. Works when you don't have electricity. Battery Tender connected to my S2000 right now but she is in the garage.
-- Chuck
-- Chuck
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,614
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From: Northern VA
I've actually started looking at this recently as well, as I'll be going to a lightweight battery soon.
A trickle charger is going to be the best option if you can't be bothered with inputting the radio code & presets each time. That said, it's a bit of a waste of energy if you aren't going to be using the car for a very long period. Also, key fob programming isn't lost when the battery is disconnected (in the key fob or the car).
Getting a switch with the bypass circuit to keep the car energized, maintaining your radio presets etc will not fix your issue. It is exactly that small parasitic drain that is killing your batteries. You will want the battery 100% disconnected from the car to preserve it.
Something to keep in mind is that with the battery disconnected, the ECU will need to relearn its fuel adjustments the first time you start the car. Not a big deal at all, just start the car with all of the accessories turned off, and let it idle until it's up to temperature - about 5-10 minutes. I do this seasonally, or when I travel a long way to an area with significantly different temperature or elevation.
My recommendation would be a 150+ amp disconnect switch without the bypass circuit. Write your radio code & presets on a scrap of paper that you keep near, or in, the car. Let's face it, the last time a radio was stolen from one of our cars was probably a decade ago. It's not like they're very good anyway.
To clarify - something like this: http://www.amazon.co...xgy_auto_text_y
A trickle charger is going to be the best option if you can't be bothered with inputting the radio code & presets each time. That said, it's a bit of a waste of energy if you aren't going to be using the car for a very long period. Also, key fob programming isn't lost when the battery is disconnected (in the key fob or the car).
Getting a switch with the bypass circuit to keep the car energized, maintaining your radio presets etc will not fix your issue. It is exactly that small parasitic drain that is killing your batteries. You will want the battery 100% disconnected from the car to preserve it.
Something to keep in mind is that with the battery disconnected, the ECU will need to relearn its fuel adjustments the first time you start the car. Not a big deal at all, just start the car with all of the accessories turned off, and let it idle until it's up to temperature - about 5-10 minutes. I do this seasonally, or when I travel a long way to an area with significantly different temperature or elevation.
My recommendation would be a 150+ amp disconnect switch without the bypass circuit. Write your radio code & presets on a scrap of paper that you keep near, or in, the car. Let's face it, the last time a radio was stolen from one of our cars was probably a decade ago. It's not like they're very good anyway.
To clarify - something like this: http://www.amazon.co...xgy_auto_text_y
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Thanks for the help. After consideration the radio presets etc are less of a concern for me.
I would like to have something that looks nice and can be tastefully mounted in the engine bay.
So something like this should be fine? It 2 terminal with 175 amp rating.
http://www.longacreracing.com/produc...l+-+2+Terminal
Or is it better to go with the 4 terminal? also has the 175 amp rating.
http://www.longacreracing.com/produc...l+-+4+Terminal
Thanks again.
I would like to have something that looks nice and can be tastefully mounted in the engine bay.
So something like this should be fine? It 2 terminal with 175 amp rating.
http://www.longacreracing.com/produc...l+-+2+Terminal
Or is it better to go with the 4 terminal? also has the 175 amp rating.
http://www.longacreracing.com/produc...l+-+4+Terminal
Thanks again.
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