Wouldn't you have to do something real stupid to get air in the ABS?

I have seen people do stupid things changing oil, tightening bolts, I even saw a screw up topping of the radiator.

This brake system does not seem any more complicated than most others. And I don't think you have to do anything special when bleeding or flushing.. just avoid the stupid moves.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by cdelena
[B]

Wouldn't you have to do something real stupid to get air in the ABS?

 

Yes I think you would on our S2K. About the only way on ours would be to screw up a "flush" from a contaminated system, or mis-use a vacuum.

But on my Jeep, I installed a new front line to replace a leaker and could not get the mush out via bleeding. Turned out that I had air in ABS. Had to use vacuum (and some light tapping on ABS) to get it out. I had to cut and flair a new fitting on steel line...went dry in process

I installed Earls steel lines on S2K, drained lines (drip dry), installed them and bled LF-RF-RR-LR.....no problems with ABS at all

 

Proline, for real?? do you have a speed bleeder on the clutch??

 

No Speedbleeder for clutch; I just pretty much followed the Service Manual on page 12-6.

 

Found the following information in the Helm service manual and thought I would post it here in order to answer some recent questions in this forum, buried in various posts.
First, there is no special tool required to bleed our brakes unless you are planning to pressure bleed the system, in which case you will need the appropriate power probe pressure bleeder adapter for the master cylinder.
Second, the order in which the brakes should be bled are as follows: Front left, then front right, then rear right, then rear left (which seems like just the opposite order that I am used to).
Third, the bleed screw should be torqued to 7 lb-ft.
Fourth, when changing the brake hoses, the following torques are specified: the two 6 mm flange bolts for the knuckle and damper bracket are 7.2 lb-ft, the 8 mm flange bolt is 16 lb-ft, and the banjo bolt is 25 lb-ft.
Fifth, there is no separate reservoir for the ABS; the ABS Modulator-Control Unit is fed from the master cylinder.
Hope that helps.

 

Generally the only time you need to bleed the ABS system is when you are installing a new ABS hydraulic unit that is dry. As said before, most of the time the air does not make it into the brake lines up to the ABS unit.

I work for an ABS manufacturer, and at least for *our* systems, which are installed mostly on domestic vehicles, there is a internal bleed sequence that can be triggered from a dealership diagnostic tool, which runs the internal parts of the valve to cycle fluid through the valve. I would imagine HOnda has a similar feature.

Sometimes, when I dont have one of the tools, and I am doing a major bleed on a vehicle, I will do a really good base bleed (all 4 wheels), then go out and do a few ABS stops, then do a second base bleed. This really shouldnt be necessary unless you got a LOT of air in your system, or unless you were unhooking the hydraulic lines near the ABS unit. (what a pain in the ass.. i'm glad i got a couple promotions so I dont have to bleed vehicles anymore )

 

i have an urgent request for help about this issue.

During bleeding the brakes, we were too late refilling the reservoir with brakefluid, wich caused the air to get sucked in. Now normal bleeding doens't help the brake pedal to feel firm again. A friend of mine thinks the abs pump sucked in some air.

Now you guys are talking about doing some abs stops... I suppose you mean breaking very hard to the abs system starts working? So easy to do on a wet surface or grindy surface? Will this be enough to bleed the abs pump and collect the air in my brakeshoes so i can bleed them?

Is there another procedure to follow to bleed the air from the abs pump?

Need some urgent help, I'm doing a time attack next sunday and I need my brakes to work just fine, otherwise I'm gonna be in trouble

any how to's to find how to bleed the abs pump?

thx for the help guys!

 

there is no ABS section...

Just re-bleed the brakes again

 

I reinstall the braking system in my track car. It was on the shelf for about a year. The only issue I had was getting the fluid into the ABS pump as it was bone dry from sitting. once we got the fluid into the system, it bleed just fine.

What I saw was that the system would not bleed at all. We had to pump the pedal until the fluid passed entered the system. once it was past the ABS pump, we were golden.