Blown HG??
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,197
Likes: 9
From: Rio Rancho, NM
Blown HG??
Hey guys, hoping someone can help identify if I'm having a blown hg related issue.
I have a 04 s2k with a Laskey built engine, supertech springs and retainers, ARP headstuds, OEM headgasket and a Fullrace GTX3076r turbo kit. Also have coolant lines going to the turbo, SPAL fans, Mishimoto fan shroud and a koyorad radiator. I'm running 23psi on E85. Have been for a long time now.
What has been happening is when I drive the car, my temps used to stay around the 181-187 range, with and without A/C on. When I would beat on it temps would rise to about 190-194. Not bad. When I would beat on it for a long period of time (I.E. getting tuned) my overflow for the coolant would fill up, a lot. Then in the morning would drop back down. My heater used to blow super hot so I never worried about it, even though it was kind of odd. I even changed the rad cap thinking that was the problem, but it still continued.
I got a road tune on Friday and car was great. Temps were solid etc. Let it sit until Saturday evening. Went to drive it and made it maybe 2 miles from my house when I noticed my water temps were 220+. I put the heater full blast and its ice cold. I have bled the coolant hundreds of times on my s, every way possible. Nevertheless, decided to bleed the coolant again.
While bleeding the coolant, the heater would get hot hot, like its supposed to and my temps would stay solid. Fans would also cycle on and off. I'd take the car for a spin around the block and boom, heater blows cold again, and temps rise. I saw something on here about maybe possible head lift with the ARPs, so today I pulled everything off, and re-torqued the head-studs to 90ftlbs. Bled the coolant two more times, heater blows piping hot now. Went and drove it and heater stayed super hot and temps looked perfect. Thought I had solved it. WRONG. I let it sit for a few hours. Went to drive it tonight, heater blows ice cold and temps went to 220+ again. Super frustrating.
I'm not seeing any mixing of oil and coolant. Not in the valve cover, the oil cap, the rad, or the radiator overflow. Even drained the oil. No chocolate, watery looking oil. I'm so confused at this point, and really tired of bleeding coolant. Should I just go ahead and pull the head off? Spark plugs look good too. The car does smoke a bit, but it has since I swapped in the built motor 3 years ago.
Car has been turbo for seven months now and has given me cooling issues in the past. I spent the $ and got the big radiator and giant fans and it solved the issues, but now they're back and way worse.
Hoping you guys can help me diagnose whats going on here.
Thanks.
Forgot to mention that the car was Supercharged before I went turbo and had zero issues with cooling then....
I have a 04 s2k with a Laskey built engine, supertech springs and retainers, ARP headstuds, OEM headgasket and a Fullrace GTX3076r turbo kit. Also have coolant lines going to the turbo, SPAL fans, Mishimoto fan shroud and a koyorad radiator. I'm running 23psi on E85. Have been for a long time now.
What has been happening is when I drive the car, my temps used to stay around the 181-187 range, with and without A/C on. When I would beat on it temps would rise to about 190-194. Not bad. When I would beat on it for a long period of time (I.E. getting tuned) my overflow for the coolant would fill up, a lot. Then in the morning would drop back down. My heater used to blow super hot so I never worried about it, even though it was kind of odd. I even changed the rad cap thinking that was the problem, but it still continued.
I got a road tune on Friday and car was great. Temps were solid etc. Let it sit until Saturday evening. Went to drive it and made it maybe 2 miles from my house when I noticed my water temps were 220+. I put the heater full blast and its ice cold. I have bled the coolant hundreds of times on my s, every way possible. Nevertheless, decided to bleed the coolant again.
While bleeding the coolant, the heater would get hot hot, like its supposed to and my temps would stay solid. Fans would also cycle on and off. I'd take the car for a spin around the block and boom, heater blows cold again, and temps rise. I saw something on here about maybe possible head lift with the ARPs, so today I pulled everything off, and re-torqued the head-studs to 90ftlbs. Bled the coolant two more times, heater blows piping hot now. Went and drove it and heater stayed super hot and temps looked perfect. Thought I had solved it. WRONG. I let it sit for a few hours. Went to drive it tonight, heater blows ice cold and temps went to 220+ again. Super frustrating.
I'm not seeing any mixing of oil and coolant. Not in the valve cover, the oil cap, the rad, or the radiator overflow. Even drained the oil. No chocolate, watery looking oil. I'm so confused at this point, and really tired of bleeding coolant. Should I just go ahead and pull the head off? Spark plugs look good too. The car does smoke a bit, but it has since I swapped in the built motor 3 years ago.
Car has been turbo for seven months now and has given me cooling issues in the past. I spent the $ and got the big radiator and giant fans and it solved the issues, but now they're back and way worse.
Hoping you guys can help me diagnose whats going on here.
Thanks.
Forgot to mention that the car was Supercharged before I went turbo and had zero issues with cooling then....
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,126
Likes: 7
From: Bay Area, CA
I had head lift a few years ago when I was s/c’d (I’m turbo’d now). It only happened when I drove hard and got into boost a lot. I had no issues when I drove normal. When driving hard, I was pushing cooling and the expansion/overflow tank never dropped (yours returns back to normal though). When that happened, there was a temperature increase until I re-bled the cooling system. I used a combustion leak detector, cooling system pressure tester, and other basic checks, but no tests indicated a blown head gasket. I took the plunge and pulled off my head. Looking at the gasket, I could tell that there was a small leak. Replacing my head gasket and using ARP head studs solved my problem.
Before you decide to pull your head, I would check that you are bleeding it correctly and getting all of the air out. How are you bleeding your coolant?
Before you decide to pull your head, I would check that you are bleeding it correctly and getting all of the air out. How are you bleeding your coolant?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,197
Likes: 9
From: Rio Rancho, NM
I used a cooling system pressure tester as well, but it show no signs of a bad head gasket. I have bled it using a spill free funnel (after installing new rad/thermostat) and that worked the best imo. I have also used the billman method. Jack the front of the car up, let the car warm up with heat blowing, shut it off and open the bleeder, close bleeder, add coolant to rad, start car and repeat until heat is hot.
Is there another way I should try? I just dont get how the heater could be super hot while bleeding coolant, and then hot while driving but as soon as I shut the car off and let it sit overnight, the heater blows ice cold again...?
Is there another way I should try? I just dont get how the heater could be super hot while bleeding coolant, and then hot while driving but as soon as I shut the car off and let it sit overnight, the heater blows ice cold again...?
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 127
Likes: 18
I used a cooling system pressure tester as well, but it show no signs of a bad head gasket. I have bled it using a spill free funnel (after installing new rad/thermostat) and that worked the best imo. I have also used the billman method. Jack the front of the car up, let the car warm up with heat blowing, shut it off and open the bleeder, close bleeder, add coolant to rad, start car and repeat until heat is hot.
Is there another way I should try? I just dont get how the heater could be super hot while bleeding coolant, and then hot while driving but as soon as I shut the car off and let it sit overnight, the heater blows ice cold again...?
Is there another way I should try? I just dont get how the heater could be super hot while bleeding coolant, and then hot while driving but as soon as I shut the car off and let it sit overnight, the heater blows ice cold again...?
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,126
Likes: 7
From: Bay Area, CA
Your coolant method sounds right. I use the Billman method since my lisle funnel kit doesn’t have an adaptor for koyo radiator. I had a small leak in my cooling system that was only detectable when fluid was drained. Maybe try that. Check the hose leading to the overflow tank too.
I’ve read about the ARP OEM debate years ago. I had head lift with OEM head bolts and head gasket. I’m pretty sure that my timing advance or increased cylinder pressures had something to do with that.
I’ve read about the ARP OEM debate years ago. I had head lift with OEM head bolts and head gasket. I’m pretty sure that my timing advance or increased cylinder pressures had something to do with that.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,197
Likes: 9
From: Rio Rancho, NM
So, you guys recommend going OEM head bolts and new OEM head gasket? I'm going to be increasing my power and running 27-28psi. Are the OEM bolts going to be able to hold?
Don't want to do all the work and then end up having the same problem again later on
Don't want to do all the work and then end up having the same problem again later on
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,126
Likes: 7
From: Bay Area, CA
Honestly, I would just ask in the Forced Induction sub forum. There should be more peeps there with actual observations. I had head lift with ~21psi s/c and OEM bolts. Now, I’m turbo’d with 23psi and ARP head studs with no issues so far.
