s2000Junky

Some cases early ap1/F20 burned up to 1Q in 1000miles right off the showroom floor so keep that in mind when gauging some perspective here. No deck plate was used to precisely hone the cylinders and so you can get some less then ideal consistent clearances that effect oil consumption. Your usage is more typical then not. The F22 addressed this. Its possible to have poor oil control ring seal but good compression rings. Also some oil in the combustion chamber will raise compression, showing otherwise more favorable numbers then mechanically what the state of the engine is in. But thats where looking at consistency across all cylinders is important to look at, as well as other signs such as oil fouling on the spark plugs. If the plugs look tan and dry, thats a very good thing. Some will show variances of this, with some severe cases of oil consumption displaying dark and white caked deposits on the electrode with a wet look around the threads and base.

fatjoe10

Junky is correct: my F22 had good compression but drank oil. When I took it apart, discovered that the oil control rings were gummed up and stuck in the ringlands, while the compression rings were perfect. This is why I suggested to remove one piston to inspect the rings.

s2000Junky

I wouldn't do anything bottom end related with the consumption quoted. Wast of time and money. When you start drinking a quart every 500 miles you got a clear bottom end problem and you will get tired of dumping in oil, changing plugs and cleaning off your rear bumper, so dig into it then or just pick up a lower mile used engine. Until then, drive it like you stole it.

jyeung528

my s was drinking a quart every 350 miles. i still dump in oil. granted, it's no longer my daily driver, which helps a lot.

funny thing is, the rear bumper is not more dirty than compared to when the car was new.

i've since got it back up to a quart every 800 miles by mixing in 15w50.

s2000Junky

I had issues with black oil dots and crap all over my rear bummer when I had motors that were drinking that much oil. I've had 5 engines in the span of time in my S2k. Sadly an expert on this haha.

nipponS2000

Thanks all the guys!I don't intend to do nothing with the bottom end.I'll just try the penzoil premium10w30 and hope for a little less smoke at traffic situations.The only solution is a new oem short block from Honda.I'll add a full rebuilt head(new valves,valve guides,seals) and enjoy a brand new motor with zero miles.

nipponS2000

How about combining f22 bottom end with jdm f20c head and jdm ecu.I know the 9000 rev limiter is a bit high for the f22 but some guys have done it.Any info for the reliability of a combination like this.I suppose it'll be a real fast motor.

zeroptzero

Wear increases exponentially with each rpm. Even if you managed to get the f22 to spin to 9000 rpms and make any decent power above 8000 rpms the rate of wear would be higher. Seeing where you are right now you might not want to experience higher wear later down the road. But anything is possible, you can throw all the money in the world into any setup and make it work. Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go ? lol

With my f20 ap1 I almost never revved it beyond 8500, there was no point as it stopped making power by then and I was already in the sweet spot for the next gear change by 8000 rpms.

nipponS2000

You got a point.

Slowcrash_101

You don't have to remove the engine to swap out piston rings. If you're going to go through the trouble of pulling the head, might as well toss new rings on there while you're in there.