Heres the catch.My turbo set up includes the following....gt35r .63 back and to4S cover, 650 cc injectors, 255 fuel pump, Aquamist 1S kit,AEM EMS, Joe alaniz's magical port and polish for FI application along with inline pro's stainless steel 3 MM head gasket and modified gear.I have one shop telling me you can run 14 psi all day long on pump gas, you have the head gasket which drops the compression 9:1, the methanol prevents detonation, and complete ignition conrtol with the aem ems.

Nowww on the other hand, I have another shop telling me dont go past 10 psi,only because the head gasket setup isnt reliable when going high boost.The ring lands on the s2000 are way to thin and the pressure will build up real quick and harm the engine.So now I got a decision to make....the number figures I am looking for is as close to 400 rwhp as possible, and pass that if possible but not by too much.If anyone has any good information based on expereince or knowledge it would be greatly appreciated.I am dazed confused and dont know whether to go up to 14 psi or just leave it alone and go with 10 psi, but like anyone else WE ALL WANT MORE HORSEPOWER

Thnks.

 

Y'd u get a turbo so large for 400rwhp? That thing takes forever to spool.

So you'll have a load of blow-by. Big deal, get 2 catch cans. Problem solved.

 

If I can make more than 400 rwhp then better for me, but I am just scared of pushing a lotta boost on the stock block, and I dont want to take anychances that arent realistic.As far as the big turbo I am going to build the block sometime next year so I d figure I d buy one turbo only not have to go buy one now and then have to sell it and swap it out.thanks for the info though kane

 

it's more about HP, not boost. It's not about how much boost this engine can handle. It's how much HP. 400 is starting get up there.

 

btw, which manifold are you going with? Manifold efficiency can give more power at lower boost. Same with intake manifold efficiency.

www.lovefab.com I'm using their manifold. Holds the GT35R just fine

also what drivetrain improvements are you looking at? I think there's a solution for all of us. Should use stock diff, axles, driveshaft (so you can replace each if they break and will save some money if you dont break something). Should be able to hold 600rwhp of constant beatings. Replaces the OEM housing (not two little billet caps which do absolutely nothing but empty your wallet by $500). I'll put up more info for all you guys when i get the info

 

I am using a similar setup to the one chris (cjb80) had on after the speed craft.The design that sits the turbo in front of the motor.I saw your love fab mani with the DP I have to admit I would have gone that rought if I didnt spend the $850.00 on making the one I currently have.4 INCH DP JESUS....but since I am not building the motor right now I didnt even look into it., beleive me depending on the results I may even go with your set up when I build the block.

 

diff and drivetrain are stock and will probably remain stock until I build the block..I dont plan on doing any burn outs or dumping the clutch at stop lights.I ll pamper it till it holds and not abuse on the car too much.

 

rgr that

 

anyone.....

 

I ran 9 psi with stock internals and water injection for over a year without any problems. After removing the head and inspecting the pistons, they are in like new condition. If I had your setup, I would run 14 psi. By the way, straight water is better for the water injection. I only add about 30 % meth in the winter.