S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Brake duct details

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Old Jun 10, 2001 | 09:15 AM
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Default Brake duct details

A number of people have asked for details on completing the brake ducts with tubing to the rotor. I finally had a day with the wheel off, the camera handy and a little time, so here is my take on this project. If you recall, here is what mine look like.




There has been a lot of speculation on how to do this, some scare about how hard it is and potential consequences. I would like to put most of that aside after doing mine over six months ago and helping someone with a similar project on a BMW.. it
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Old Jun 10, 2001 | 11:53 AM
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Great post and nice upgrade. I think you did it right with NO grill - a grill would reduce too much air flow.
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Old Jun 10, 2001 | 12:28 PM
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I don't get it. The vanes in the rotor are what help cool it. Blowing air on the side of the rotor is going to help? If it was me, I'd position the tube somehow in front of the rotor, so the vains could pump the fresh cool air around the entire rotor. Looks like with your setup, only one side of the rotor gets extra cooling. Am I mising something in my mental picture?
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Old Jun 10, 2001 | 12:56 PM
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Air to the eye of the rotor is the proper way to cool it. The rotor is spinning so the fresh air is ejected out the edges cooling both sides of the rotor from the inside as it exhausts the heated air. Pointing an airflow to the edge would not be effective.

Although I did not cover the intake because it didn
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Old Jun 10, 2001 | 02:46 PM
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by cdelena
[B]Air to the eye of the rotor is the proper way to cool it. The rotor is spinning so the fresh air is ejected out the edges cooling both sides of the rotor from the inside as it exhausts the heated air. Pointing an airflow to the edge would not be effective.
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Old Jun 10, 2001 | 03:40 PM
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Thanks Chris...

That last picture illustrates the remaining issue I had in how to set this up easily.

Where you able to bolt the drainage fixtures to the heat sheild without removing the heat shield or rotor?
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Old Jun 10, 2001 | 05:23 PM
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Originally posted by pfb
Where you able to bolt the drainage fixtures to the heat sheild without removing the heat shield or rotor?
Yes. Slip a sheet of metal or wood between the shield and the rotor so you can drill towards the rotor without danger of scarring it.

Holding the bolt with the washer on it with a needle nose just slip it down and poke it out the hole. I only used two per side to maintain position since there really is no load to worry about.
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Old Jun 10, 2001 | 06:10 PM
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Chris,

thanks for posting those pictures; they help a lot!

Thanks,

Ted
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Old Jun 11, 2001 | 03:10 AM
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cdelena,

I was asking questions on another post on this topic but didn't see any specific answer to one question - have there been any explicit measurements on temperature improvements from either this or the fitting without the duct to the discs?

My only other comment is on neatness, would a couple of nice monyl pop rivets been better?
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Old Jun 11, 2001 | 03:40 AM
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Originally posted by Col
cdelena,

I was asking questions on another post on this topic but didn't see any specific answer to one question - have there been any explicit measurements on temperature improvements from either this or the fitting without the duct to the discs?

My only other comment is on neatness, would a couple of nice monyl pop rivets been better?
I wanted to reduce heat induced fade on short tracks and I did. I can only guess what the temps might be.

IMO your critique of backing plate appearance falls into the same category as the one that didn
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