What most people perceive as warping is actually uneven deposition of pad material. In that situation, a light turn will improve things as long as you properly bed in the next set of pads.

Also, there is no benefit (and some detriments) to using drilled rotors on the track. They are much more likely to crack than a solid blank. Plus, even slotted rotors do not offer as much benefit as they once did since the advent of newer brake pad compounds.

I've bled my brakes numerous times (I track my cars), and have never had a problem with master cyclinder damage even though I do not open the bleeder screw. Can you explain how the master cylinder can be damaged during piston retraction?

 

If the rotors are really meaty I just brake in the new pads slowly. If they are too thin, I replace my rotors and put on new pads.

Turning the rotors is common practice at many dealers to ensure 'like new' operation for the old rotors. It cuts down on the life of the rotors.

 

I read in another thread a few days ago that you should just drive until the brakes squeak and then put new pads in...

Seems a little sketchy though. How would you know if it was time for new rotors and not just pads?

I believe I'm due for rotors soon since my front show a fairly noticeable decrease in depth from the outer edge to the contact patch of the pad.

Where's everyone getting these $45 OEM rotors (I've seen $75 at best but haven't doen much searching)?

 

don't believe everything you read on the forum. there's a good percentage of people here never even work on their own car to know the different between a brake proportional valve from a water melon.

some race pad or very cheap pad do not comes with brake wear indicator, there will be no audio warning before you rub backing with rotor.

on the street i turn my rotor when i am done with my first pad, when the second set is toasted i am just going to grab a new disc.

i just replaced my front rotor with oem replacement, 65 for two front shipped to my door, if it's straight cut vane and iron, you will not tell the difference. brembo blank, napa rotor, oem, etc

look at your rotor now, get a caliper to it, the min thickiness is around 25mm for the front. if you are any where close to that you will not able to resurface the rotor without getting way too low

i dont even turn my rotor on my miata anymore, 16 dollar for a new one, why bother?

 

Wrong terminology here.

If we are bleeding the brakes, then the bleed screws MUST be opened. That's where we bleed from.

What I think we are talking about here is compressing the piston in order to put new pads in. And in that case, I just compress the piston with the bleed screw closed. I've done that many dozens of times for my S2000, and am still on the same master cylinder I started with.