S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Brake Pedal Feel Issue with New SS Lines

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Old 08-01-2012, 07:14 PM
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Holy hell this is the first time I am hearing of this method! It doesn't happen to work with the clutch too does it?
Old 08-01-2012, 07:28 PM
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^^ only one way to find out!
Old 08-01-2012, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by CoolGuy094
Holy hell this is the first time I am hearing of this method! It doesn't happen to work with the clutch too does it?
Same thing I was wondering.
Old 08-02-2012, 05:28 AM
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Very interesting.... so with the air at the end of the lines now would u still need to bleed them off to get best result?
Old 08-02-2012, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Breaking Point
Very interesting.... so with the air at the end of the lines now would u still need to bleed them off to get best result?
no, billman is saying that there is nothing else to it. just depress the brake pedal overnight and it's done. like magic.
Old 08-02-2012, 11:19 AM
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The air does not go to the end of the lines.

It emulsifies back to the resovior.
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Old 08-02-2012, 12:45 PM
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I am currently in San Diego about 100 miles away from my car, as soon as I come back to my hometown "Friday" I will leave the brake on wait for the magic the happen, I am hoping this is going to help and I will post the results.
Old 08-02-2012, 12:48 PM
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It seems like most know how to post but very few know how to use Google.
Googe = search engine, it has been around for a while now.
Educate yourself, don't be a I-jump-when-they-tell-me-to-jump and I believe-anything-they-tell-me kinda person.

Brake fluid is designed to absorb water, in a way that it will keep water "in suspension" so those water molecules do not form big enough clusters to create an actual water droplet that can boil - and form steam - when the brake fluid reaches +100C temperatures.
Boiling water turning into steam gives the Mother of spunchy brake pedals.
The specs to show this are the wet and dry boiling points.
Wet means the fluid has absorbed a certain amount of water, according to DOT specs (Google )

This property also works with air and is enhanced when the fluid is under pressure.
(this is why it doesn't really work in the clutch as you can not build-up pressure in that system)

After this it becomes unclear, there are several theories.
And it depends a bit on where the air bubble is.

Its is possible some of the air pops out again over time, much like opening a soda bottle (carbon dioxide in sugared water) as soon as the pressure is gone.
This would suggest a bleed with fresh fluid after the pressure time will actually remove the air - trapped in the old fluid.
Its possible the air does make its way out through the non hard lines or past the seals, as most flexible materials are not 100% air tight and the seals are certainly not air tight - this will take more time.
Just like moisture gets in the fluid over time.
Its possible the air stays in susension.
There are people that de-air their brake fluid before using it.
There is one brand of fluid that claimes to be de-aired after production, or at least a lot more than other brands.

All I think is that if a mechanic changes brake lines on a car with a firm pedal, and after the swap the pedal is soft, I would not think too much of that mechanic.
I recently swapped my (perfectly good OEM 12 year 230k km old) rubber lines with braided lines and the pedal was a little better than before.
So it IS possible... you know.

Old 08-02-2012, 12:54 PM
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^ is there a point to your post aside from insulting everyone in the thread?
Old 08-02-2012, 01:05 PM
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I agree. I don't jump just because someone says so. I like to learn from other members but saying "do it because it's magic" takes away credibility. I want the true details.


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