Brake Pedal Feel Issue with New SS Lines
#23
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#25
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TheListo (03-12-2017)
#27
I am currently in San Diego about 100 miles away from my car, as soon as I come back to my hometown "Friday" I will leave the brake on wait for the magic the happen, I am hoping this is going to help and I will post the results.
#28
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It seems like most know how to post but very few know how to use Google.
Googe = search engine, it has been around for a while now.
Educate yourself, don't be a I-jump-when-they-tell-me-to-jump and I believe-anything-they-tell-me kinda person.
Brake fluid is designed to absorb water, in a way that it will keep water "in suspension" so those water molecules do not form big enough clusters to create an actual water droplet that can boil - and form steam - when the brake fluid reaches +100C temperatures.
Boiling water turning into steam gives the Mother of spunchy brake pedals.
The specs to show this are the wet and dry boiling points.
Wet means the fluid has absorbed a certain amount of water, according to DOT specs (Google )
This property also works with air and is enhanced when the fluid is under pressure.
(this is why it doesn't really work in the clutch as you can not build-up pressure in that system)
After this it becomes unclear, there are several theories.
And it depends a bit on where the air bubble is.
Its is possible some of the air pops out again over time, much like opening a soda bottle (carbon dioxide in sugared water) as soon as the pressure is gone.
This would suggest a bleed with fresh fluid after the pressure time will actually remove the air - trapped in the old fluid.
Its possible the air does make its way out through the non hard lines or past the seals, as most flexible materials are not 100% air tight and the seals are certainly not air tight - this will take more time.
Just like moisture gets in the fluid over time.
Its possible the air stays in susension.
There are people that de-air their brake fluid before using it.
There is one brand of fluid that claimes to be de-aired after production, or at least a lot more than other brands.
All I think is that if a mechanic changes brake lines on a car with a firm pedal, and after the swap the pedal is soft, I would not think too much of that mechanic.
I recently swapped my (perfectly good OEM 12 year 230k km old) rubber lines with braided lines and the pedal was a little better than before.
So it IS possible... you know.
Googe = search engine, it has been around for a while now.
Educate yourself, don't be a I-jump-when-they-tell-me-to-jump and I believe-anything-they-tell-me kinda person.
Brake fluid is designed to absorb water, in a way that it will keep water "in suspension" so those water molecules do not form big enough clusters to create an actual water droplet that can boil - and form steam - when the brake fluid reaches +100C temperatures.
Boiling water turning into steam gives the Mother of spunchy brake pedals.
The specs to show this are the wet and dry boiling points.
Wet means the fluid has absorbed a certain amount of water, according to DOT specs (Google )
This property also works with air and is enhanced when the fluid is under pressure.
(this is why it doesn't really work in the clutch as you can not build-up pressure in that system)
After this it becomes unclear, there are several theories.
And it depends a bit on where the air bubble is.
Its is possible some of the air pops out again over time, much like opening a soda bottle (carbon dioxide in sugared water) as soon as the pressure is gone.
This would suggest a bleed with fresh fluid after the pressure time will actually remove the air - trapped in the old fluid.
Its possible the air does make its way out through the non hard lines or past the seals, as most flexible materials are not 100% air tight and the seals are certainly not air tight - this will take more time.
Just like moisture gets in the fluid over time.
Its possible the air stays in susension.
There are people that de-air their brake fluid before using it.
There is one brand of fluid that claimes to be de-aired after production, or at least a lot more than other brands.
All I think is that if a mechanic changes brake lines on a car with a firm pedal, and after the swap the pedal is soft, I would not think too much of that mechanic.
I recently swapped my (perfectly good OEM 12 year 230k km old) rubber lines with braided lines and the pedal was a little better than before.
So it IS possible... you know.