If you can't get it right, take it to a shop and have them bleed it again. And for goodness sake, be careful while you drive it to the shop.

 

ok thanks for all the info guys now the pedal felt alot better but the Brake light on the dash came on so what could it be?

 

low fluid

 

Your master cylinder is low. That is why the light is on.

Do you have a Helm manual? If not, it will be the best mod for your car at this time. You have to keep an eye on the master cylinder while performing the procedure. If the master cylinder runs too low while bleeding, it will suck air into the system and you will have to start over again.

Your assistant should tell you to close the valve just before the pedal reaches the floor. If you get the valve closed before the pedal reaches the floor, the bleeder will not introduce air into the system. On the other hand, if you wait until the pedal is all the way down to the floor before you tighten the bleeder valve, there is a possibility that air will get sucked through the bleeder and into the system.

I have never changed my brake lines, (I'm not a baller yo) but I would suspect that it would be a lengthy process to bleed the entire system of air. What the hell, I'll tell ya the sequence. Front left, front right, right rear and left rear is the bleeding sequence per the Helm manual.

If you do this shit over and over and over, I guarantee you will have a rock hard pedal. If not, I recommend you have an experenced mechanic perform the procedure.



Good luck

I forgot, dun't spill brake fluid on the paint. Keep a bottle of windex and some paper towels on hand just in case.

 

For one man brake bleeding, Motive Power Bleeder model 0101 is the safest and easiest to use on most Japanese cars. I have it with adaptor 1100 to use on Germany cars. I bought it online 2-3 years ago for less than $40 + shipping.