Brake Rotors Removal
I plan to replace the front rotors this Spring and had two questions:
1) Other than an impact wrench on the screws is there a product out there to "un-seize" what are surely very tight screws ?
2) I was planning on buying DBA 4000 series rotors. Anyone had good or bad experiences with them ?
1) Other than an impact wrench on the screws is there a product out there to "un-seize" what are surely very tight screws ?
2) I was planning on buying DBA 4000 series rotors. Anyone had good or bad experiences with them ?
Liberally apply liquid wrech, WD40, etc. Let it sit for few minutes before using the impact wrench.
I gonna bet your rotors are gonna be stuck to your hubs. Get a BFH and pound that sucker lose. Or I believe you can screw in a screw to push it off -- did this with my other Honda's. Not sure about the S.
I gonna bet your rotors are gonna be stuck to your hubs. Get a BFH and pound that sucker lose. Or I believe you can screw in a screw to push it off -- did this with my other Honda's. Not sure about the S.
Originally Posted by Billy S.,Feb 26 2008, 04:45 PM
only thing you will need is a impact driver to remove the screws thats all oh yea a hammer LOL!!!
and a BIG hammer to break to rotor away from the hub assuming its rusted on
You dont really need an impact to loosen the braket bolts< Just use a 1/2 inch braker bar and a socket or a box end wrench with a small piece of pipe .
Remember when you are lossening the bolts , you pull or push down on the driver side and go up on the pass side.
Your rotor will stick to the hub in most cases, you can use a hammer or you will notice two holes in the rotor mounting surface , they have metric threads pre cut in them. All you have to do is take one of your new rotors to a hardwear store and get bolts that are about 2 inches long, using the same holes that are in your new rotors to be sure they are the right thread pitch. Somtimes it only takes one screw, Just thread the bolts into the stuck rotor holes and tighten until it pops loose.
Hears a pic of my Fronts , you can see the two retaining scews and you can see two smaller holes were you would put the bolts.
Remember when you are lossening the bolts , you pull or push down on the driver side and go up on the pass side.
Your rotor will stick to the hub in most cases, you can use a hammer or you will notice two holes in the rotor mounting surface , they have metric threads pre cut in them. All you have to do is take one of your new rotors to a hardwear store and get bolts that are about 2 inches long, using the same holes that are in your new rotors to be sure they are the right thread pitch. Somtimes it only takes one screw, Just thread the bolts into the stuck rotor holes and tighten until it pops loose.
Hears a pic of my Fronts , you can see the two retaining scews and you can see two smaller holes were you would put the bolts.
The bracket bolts are not the issue...it's the philips head screws that hold the rotor on that are in question.
WD40 or any spray will not help either, because it's usually never rust.
It's just a tight screw, due to the large taper/surface area of the screw head.
A handheld (hand tool, not an air tool or any powered tool) impact driver with a #3 philips screwdriver bit has worked for me 100% of the time on the s2k, even the oldest/most rusted cars.
WD40 or any spray will not help either, because it's usually never rust.
It's just a tight screw, due to the large taper/surface area of the screw head.
A handheld (hand tool, not an air tool or any powered tool) impact driver with a #3 philips screwdriver bit has worked for me 100% of the time on the s2k, even the oldest/most rusted cars.
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Originally Posted by Billman250,Feb 26 2008, 06:46 PM
The bracket bolts are not the issue...it's the philips head screws that hold the rotor on that are in question.
WD40 or any spray will not help either, because it's usually never rust.
It's just a tight screw, due to the large taper/surface area of the screw head.
A handheld (hand tool, not an air tool or any powered tool) impact driver with a #3 philips screwdriver bit has worked for me 100% of the time on the s2k, even the oldest/most rusted cars.
WD40 or any spray will not help either, because it's usually never rust.
It's just a tight screw, due to the large taper/surface area of the screw head.
A handheld (hand tool, not an air tool or any powered tool) impact driver with a #3 philips screwdriver bit has worked for me 100% of the time on the s2k, even the oldest/most rusted cars.
I just juice them up good with Liquid Wrench aqnd use the hand-held imact driver on those philips head screws.
Done it countless times.
-Hockey
Originally Posted by Hockey,Feb 27 2008, 09:38 AM
use the hand-held imact driver on those philips head screws.
Billman says hand held but not powered?
Any pics would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Dan







