Importedpower

Ok well some of you may remember my engine blown up thread and all the damned nightmares from honda. Well, after changing ALL fluids I came across a problem. My car felt like I was towing when starting from a stop. So i had to get my tires swapped around (inner wear from camber). I noticed while it was on the lift that the passenger front was hard to turn. Well i ignored it till it got worse.

Took car home and jacked it up.
Passenger front turned fine, they all did.
So I left it alone and went inside.
Well, I walked out about 30 minutes later and son of a... the damn driver side front was stuck.

So I rebleed, checked everything etc. Still stuck, and the passengers is off and on stuck.

Well damnit. I opened the bleeder on the front and tried to turn it. Nothing, driver side wouldn't turn. Also minimal fluid came out with the bleeder WIDE OPEN (IE: the bleeder screw was IN MY HAND) I was pissed. So I ordered new front calipers. Got on in yesterday and havent installed yet, waiting on passenger side.

So here is where my REAL problem starts.
I went ahead and bought rear pads and rotors as well as front pads and rotors figuring oh what the hell! Do it all in time for the dragon.
Well damnit! Both rears are locked up now. If you pump a few times then open bleeder the rotors will turn. If not, then it wont turn hardly, it takes quite a bit of force to get it to rotate.
I've pulled both side rears off atleast 3 times and reset them, redo, then the shit does the same thing. Not to mention i've bled probably 15 times per side and it bleeds perfectly with no air bubbles.

Plus i still have the drivers side front stuck.
I am so pissed off. I can't figure out what the hell is wrong! Ideas?

2003AP1

Before this happened when was the last time the brakes were beld?

Lines could be the culprit as well.

Put a hose on the brake bleeder, put the other end in a cup with brake fluid.
Pump the brakes, what do you see? Bubbles? Perhaps there is air in the lines if you ran the fluid low.

Murphg05

Just an idea for you... not sure how the S2000 master cylinder is set up. BUT, I had the same problem on a mustang. Turned out the rod that goes into the master cylinder when the brakes were applied was binding. So basically the brakes worked fine to stop, but when the pedal was released the rod stayed in as if I was still on the brake. Master cylinder did not need to be replaced, just pulled out and greased up. After that the brakes released fine.

zeroptzero

Just curious if you have ever removed the caliper slider pins and lubricated them at any point in the past. The calipers slide side to side on the pins and require some lube to prevent them from sticking. If they aren't lubed they will bind at some point in time, hard to say how long it takes. I do mine once a year as preventative maintenance.

You also might want to check your emergency brake and make sure it is adjusted properly. The rear wheels should turn freely with it fully down, there should be slight drag at one click engaged, and fully locked at 9-13 clicks. If it is too tightly adjusted you can back it off with a 10mm wrench, the adjuster is located under the elbowpad.

Sorry to hear of your continued woes, I kind of know the feeling though. Good luck getting things back together.

OneSilverS2k

I would look into your master cylinder push rod, make sure it is adjusted to factory spec. Of for some reason the push rod seals are not coming back enough you could be sealing pressure in the lines, you can also check with a brake tool how much pressure is being applied to each caliper, take it off put it in between the pads. look into your combination valve too.

Importedpower

The front driver won't hardly bleed.
The rears bleed just fine but seems it wont release that pressure.
The parking brake feels a little loose honestly, I got it off and on the caliper with the caliper bolted in place still.
The brake master cylinder, how do you adjust that?
How would I know it needed to be adjusted?
The odd part is EVERYTHING worked on the back end until I put on the new pads and rotors so I can't fathom what would cause that. My only issue was the fronts. Only thing I did to rear was reset and put the pads on.

zeroptzero

Do you have a shop manual, the master cylinder rod inspection and adjustment is listed in there, I have never looked at it closely but I recall reading that it needs a certain amount of clearance (measured with a feeler gauge), without the clearance it could theoretically cause things to be too tight.

SouthDakotaS2K

It's not lines or the master. You ruled that out when you opened the bleeder and it still wouldn't turn. If it was residual pressure opening the bleeder would have released it. It is either the slide pins that are stuck or the caliper piston is corroded and stuck.

Importedpower

Read more carefully...
FRONT: I know is seized as it would not turn when I open the bleeder.
===> REAR: Both sides are stuck, and if you bleed it, it will turn until you hit the brakes a few times then they seize up again.
About to open both sides and see what it does.

Greg W

After checking your master cylinder plunger, i'd suggest rebuilding all 4 calipers, including checking/regreasing/replacing the slider pins. If you replaced the front calipers, just rebuild rear ones but do all sliders. Then suck all the old brake fluid out of the master cylinder, clean any master cylinder reservoir residue out, and add different color fluid and rebleed entire system starting FL/FR/RR/RL. Good luck.