Like using a 3/4" drive monster on a 12mm head that needs to be torqued to 15ft/lbs. It may be set to the correct torque spec, but you also have a lot more leverage on the nut/bolt.

 

I didnt use a 3/4", but I don't see how that would affect the torque setting if it set to the right torque. 15ft/lbs is 15ft/lbs, no matter whats delivering it.

 

I can't site my source because i read this in passing from a similar thread, but one of the more seasoned posters (can't remember their SN) basically explained why it's bad to do that.

I tried for a quick search, but can't locate it. Sorry.

 

I know that torque wrenches are generally more off on either end of the range, so maybe that's what you mean.
So If I used a tq wrench with range 25-100ft/lbs, it would be more off at 25 then if I used one with a range of 5-60ft/lbs.

 

a 3/8ths tq wrench is the MAXIMUM I'd use for any value under 50 ft lbs, furthermore, I prefer to use torque wrenches that measure in Nm, it's more precise. Also it's good practice to torque bolts in steps precisely for this reason; first half torque, then 3/4ths then final.

 

Yes that's exactly what i mean, sorry for the fractured thoughts. I'm juggling like three activities at once right now lol.

 

Having played with a number of banjo bolts on calipers, I immediately discount the factory torque setting down to 20 ft lbs on aftermarket replacements, that is plenty safe and still snug. The OEM banjo bolts are stronger than aftermarket replacements that tend to be thinner metal from what I've seen.

 

Most SS line suppliers give you the banjo bolts and washers with the lines. Just use them if you have them but put them on at about 20 ft lbs torque, a tad lower than the oem setting.

 

I just did ss lines today too, I did the clutch line in stainless as well. I used Stop Tech brand brake lines and the torque spec on the banjo bolt was 18 ft pounds. I did not use a torque wrench I just snugged them till they felt right, no leaks no issues

 

Looks like I might have a leak or two.