bulding motor...need ideas
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Gold Coast
I think dogbox would be too noisy in our car
Probably need a racing helmet whereever you go
Check these guys out if you want some billet helical gears
http://www.gearbox-racing.com/
Probably need a racing helmet whereever you go
Check these guys out if you want some billet helical gears
http://www.gearbox-racing.com/
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,768
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From: Southwest Florida
Mike can do the motor swap, but he doesn't do tuning. I think Mike charges $1000 to do the labor on the motor swap, in addition to the $5600.
You can drive the car there, and he can put the new motor in and drive it home.
He's in Ohio by the way.
Chris
You can drive the car there, and he can put the new motor in and drive it home.
He's in Ohio by the way.
Chris
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Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Tampa ,FL
Chris I am not blaming Mike for my engine failures but it would be nice if he answered my calls. Mike did help me out in diferent ways..and actually i like him as a person and his buddy Andre they mean good. It is just the customer service. I did not blow a head gasket. I keep on blowing #4 piston rings. I dont know why..the timing is correct and there is no nocking..
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Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Southwest Florida
there is no cylinder taper. The pistons are the same design that every other motor has that he has built. Ring end gap I assume is within tollerance, however, it would be quite a coincidence if that happened twice in a row. The connecting rod may be an explaination.....
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Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Come see me after class.
I'm thinking conrod also.
Just because there shouldn't be cylinder taper doesn't mean there isn't. As far as rings go, they could either be seized in the grooves (due to being too large or from carbon build-up), not sealing properly (if the end gaps aren't lined up at opposite ends of piston), slapping around (due to not being thick enough), have too little end gap to accommodate for heat expansion, among other things.
If his conrod is tweaked, piston deformed, or cylinder deformed, you'd have a piston slap which could also fock up your rings. You might also have preignition in that individual cylinder, causing your bearings to go sour from the extra stress of the combustion trying to push the piston in the wrong direction. Or, your conrod bearing and/or wrist pin could be bad.
Just because there shouldn't be cylinder taper doesn't mean there isn't. As far as rings go, they could either be seized in the grooves (due to being too large or from carbon build-up), not sealing properly (if the end gaps aren't lined up at opposite ends of piston), slapping around (due to not being thick enough), have too little end gap to accommodate for heat expansion, among other things.
If his conrod is tweaked, piston deformed, or cylinder deformed, you'd have a piston slap which could also fock up your rings. You might also have preignition in that individual cylinder, causing your bearings to go sour from the extra stress of the combustion trying to push the piston in the wrong direction. Or, your conrod bearing and/or wrist pin could be bad.
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Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Tampa ,FL
The way my last piston looked was that the grooves for the rings was compressed locking in the rings were they had no movement. they had to be broken off in order to be taken out. something is compressing the rings groove together. Now i am sure i need new pistons again.. What do you guys think?