Tried trouble shooting this myself and I'm at the point where I'm stumped and don't know where to go from here.

Car Originally was an AP1 that had a 2.2 crank and rods with ap1 pistons. I am the 10th owner of the vehicle so needless to say the car was in terrible shape.
about a year ago my third spark plug melted from tons of oil being in the cylinder that I attributed to bad valve seals/guides. So I replaced all the valve guides, seals, ap2 intake retainers and all new ap1 exhaust retainers and new keepers while retaining the OEM Valves. Put the head back on the car and basically after about 50 miles of finally holding proper compression the poorly rebuilt bottom end went. Piston blow by was so bad beainrgs literally fell apart and oil pump just started failing. So I decided to rebuild

I replaced the bottom end with an inline PRO 2.7 l Stroker with 12.5:1 compression cp pistons, Carillo Rods, ACL rod main and thrust bearings, Inline PRO sleeves with copper o Rings, new oil pump, oil pump chain and guides, timing chain and guides, inline pro tct, inline pro 90 mm bore oem thickness head gasket, BC Stage 2 NA cams and I think that's everything. Assembled the engine with my engine builder, Sleeves were installed and honed by Inline pro, Enginge Break in and tuning of the motor was done by Jeff Evans at Evans Tuning.

So after the tune i was driving to see how it was performing and tried pulling up next to a gtr just to see how long I could stay with him. vtec started going in and out and I got concerned. Checked my oil level and saw i was a little low after about 200 miles on the engine. so i poured in a quart and kept driving. since then I have had to add a quart of oil every 100 miles. Initially I was running on 5w30 synthetic and after adding two quarts to that after it had burned I tried switching to mobil 1 10w40 synthetic. I drove another 100 miles ranging through the RPMs going in and out of VTEC and still burnt through an entire quart.

I did a compression test on the car after it had been warmed up (I am guessing this would be considered wet?) and got the following numbers

#1 280 #2 280 #3 279 #4 281

Tried doing a leak down test following Rob Robinettes guidelines using the harbor freight gauge but between being outside and having a crappy leaking air compressor i couldn't really hear where any air was going. each cylinder had 15% loss and I could feel some air coming through the dipstick.

Is it Rings, or valve seals, or guides? What would have caused them to go bad immediately? What else Can I do? Any help would be appreciated.

 

How many miles on the rebuild? Any oil leaking (not burning)? Going through a quart in 100 miles is quick. Have you tried conventional oil to see the results and compare? Otherwise, find a way to do a proper leakdown test.

 

Oh, as for the dipstick and hearing air I would think...

1. Pistons (they are new, so...)
2. Cylinder head cracked (doubt it unless you overheated badly)
3. Head gasket (possible if leaking by an oil passage)

Was the shop knowledgable with FRM sleeves?

 

If they used pistons/rings designed to run on cast iron bores you have a problem.

The F20 block uses alloy/FRM bores that require rings with different facing material and pistons with special coatings on the skirts.

Conventional chrome faced rings/forged alloy pistons grab/gaul the bores and will result in huge oil consumption leading to eventual failure.

 

Any oil in the coolant? Does the coolant bubble during leakdown or compression tests? - indicate head gasket or crack in bore/block

Try the leakdown test with a stethoscope to listen for air.

May just be break in also while the rings are seating. Try switching to a specific break in oil, which might be conventional.

 

have you looked under the car yet to make sure you're not pissing oil everywhere from a leak?

 

When the engine was assembled, were the ring gaps offset properly. If the oil control ring gaps were aligned accidentally, it'll push oil right up into the cylinder, rather than scraping the walls off. Were these low tension rings or other? I hope the hone crosshatch angle was compatible with the rings used.

What oil was used on initial run in, and 200 miles on quality rings/bores really isn't enough time for full ring seating.

 

PCV good?

 

if the sleeves and hone were done by INPro, id say it was done right

 

Approximately 700 miles on the rebuild. Haven't tried using conventional oil yet.


I dont have FRM sleeves any more. I have Inline Pro's closed deck sleeves

No FRM sleeves

No oil in coolant or vice versa. Might try the stethescope.


Yup. No oil leaking.


5w30 mobil 1 synthetic and once i noticed the significant oil burning I switched to 10w40 mobil 1 synthetic to see if it made a difference.

brand new sensor and I have it routed to an oil catch can as well as the valve cover front tube.

Yeah the block was sleeved and honed by them and i assembled the motor with my engine builder.