When this is all sorted out, I think Knapp is gonna go 300 mph in a normally aspirated 2.0 liter Honda engine

 

Hahaha, no kidding. He's already making as much power as I'm getting from my (admittedly conservative) boosted F20C. But you know, I bet we'll still see people advising others that you can't get more out of the engine without boost.

 

Just a guess, but I think the bolt may have snapped first. I'm guessing that because lots of engines have had valves hit pistons and not had that bolt snap. Of course, those engines weren't modified exactly like yours, so it's hard to say for sure.

 

Thanks for the thoughts, Mike. It's good to have at least some feedback.

And Red, yes the lobes are sitting on the followers as the rollers are missing. And why abort the run? The motor was pulling fairly clean and has stock pistons and maybe a bit off the head for some compression, but I doubt even 12 to 1. And I was running a mixture of 2/3rd's VP C16 110 octane or so, and 1/3 VP MR 9 at 85 octane (or was it the other way around? Hmmmm.... can't check my notes at the moment.) That and the terrific combustion chamber shape of the S2K means I never worry about detonation (or maybe I'm not smart enought to care... I dunno). And it was the sensor blowing out of the pipe that caused the spike.

Anyway it's given me a chance to work on my 55 Chevy, something I haven't done in three eyars since I got bit by the salt bug.

All the best,

Jim Knapp

 

Hey Red #2,

As for no more power without boost I sometimes run a Suzuki GSX-R 1000 cc motorcycle motor in my car to run in a different class. Half the displacement and 171 RWHP! That's over 2 3/4 HP per inch. Of course it's at 12,700 RPM, but it's why I do everything I can to try and emulate the Suzuki's intake tract in anything I build, i.e., NO turns of ANY kind if possible, just a straight drain pipe from the intake bell to the intake valve. So I think with an intercooler (but no turbo) to cool the intake air, evacuated crankcase, and a heated fuel tract, 315 to 325 RWHP is possible with this motor.

$tay tuned.

Jim

 

 

I'll be staying tuned for sure, even though I feel like a gawker (someone who slows down to look at the damage after an automobile accident). Where can I find more information on your cars and efforts?

 

[QUOTE=RED MX5,Nov 18 2007, 07:16 PM]Where can I find more information on your cars and efforts?

 

Whoops, not really UTH related material.





Let the mechanical and technical aspects of this thread continue.

 

My bad. I should have PM'd you instead of asking the question in this thread.
LOL, hopefully everyone else will enjoy looking at the links as much as I have.


Back on topic ...

Mike is probabaly right about the bolt breaking first, but wouldn't the cam stop turning as soon as the bolt broke? If the bolt broke and the cam stopped turning instantly (or nearly instantly) then the valves are still in the same position they were at that point in time, and four of the valves are either fully or nearly closed; If the bolt broke first, what damaged the rollers on the four valves that are in the closed position? If the bolt broke first, wouldn't we just see four damaged rollers rather than eight?