I am going to try removing the defouler insert, so I still maintain the distance but have a larger opening. I went from somewhere around 1/4" to 1/8" and now to the smallest 1/16", so you guys may be correct in that I was heading the wrong direction. My hope is that the water toasted the first sensor and this is just a separate issue related to he test pipe.

 

But the CEL codes you are getting do not seem to be flow related, they seem to point to a faulty sensor....

 

Ok I am with you. I didn't buy an OEM sensor, but bought one off of eBay that is basically the same NGK sensor, it was a perfect fit, direct plug and play. You don't suppose that could be the issue do you?

 

Ngk should be just as good as stock. I ran a an Ngk primary sensor on my supercharged ep3 with full race header. Worked great.

 

I did have the clutch done about 200 miles prior, I didn't do it, the guy who did is good. Is there any chance something got pinched or isn't plugged in?

 

Still an issue, even after swapping the TP to a HFC. I guess my only options are to deal with the light or buy an OEM sensor

 

Do you know anyone nearby that has an OEM sensor that you can try to see if that clears it?

 

Have you tested the sensor?

Your codes are NOT related to having a TP. You have a circuit and heater malfunction. You're chasing this the wrong way.

A TP related CEL would be a P0420, catalyst efficiency code. That means that the ECU has detected that the secondary O2 is reading is the same (too similar) to the primary O2's reading...which would mean the cat is doing nothing....which it isn't...because there is a TP there.

Your codes, however, signify other issues.

Your original O2 code probably was a P0420. This could have been fixed using a defouler. The puddle was non-consequential. Its a car. It goes thru puddles all the time.

You then bought a new sensor, which was faulty...or there is something wrong with your AFC tune.

Check the resistance values on your O2 sensor. The values and procedure are in the shop manual. Do they match?

 

Is it possible that a shorted sensor could have fried the ECU heater circuit?

 

The codes have always been the same, so something happened after my clutch change OR directly from driving through the puddle. I still had the HFC when the code popped. I guess it could be somewhere along that circuit, I will check the path and see if I can maybe figure more out before getting a new O2. I hope that it didn't mess up the ECU