Car won't Move after Brake Rotor Install
#11
Former Sponsor
The rotors were probably the wrong thickness. They were bought on Ebay -- what else did you expect? There is more snake oil sold on Ebay than anywhere else on the planet.
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Waikele
Posts: 1,131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by CoralDoc
This is not normal and is strong evidence that these rotors are not suited for your friend's car. If it were my car I would immediately remove them and contact the eBay seller for a refund. Even if they won't accept them back because you machined them already, I'd still remove them. The braking system is the LAST place I'd buy "cheap" components for.
Do it now - take them off and use the OEM rotors until your friend can afford higher quality replacements that fit and work properly.
This is not normal and is strong evidence that these rotors are not suited for your friend's car. If it were my car I would immediately remove them and contact the eBay seller for a refund. Even if they won't accept them back because you machined them already, I'd still remove them. The braking system is the LAST place I'd buy "cheap" components for.
Do it now - take them off and use the OEM rotors until your friend can afford higher quality replacements that fit and work properly.
Thanks... I'll show this to my friend.
But what aobut for my car? What rotors should I get? Right now I eliminated ebay rotors ... before this i was planning to get some there, and machine them if i needed to... but not anymore..
So, but what is a good fitting slotted and drilled rotors brand? Actually, a better question is what is the cheapest slotted/drilled rotors I can get that fits. By the way I only like them coz of the look. I read from this site that they crack. but I won't be tracking my car anyways.
#14
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: encino
Posts: 1,792
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The first thing right off the bat you should have realized is that the new rotors are thicker than the original ones. Obviously new rotors will be SLIGHTLY thicker but we are talking less than a few MM. Replacement rotors need to be direct replacements and exactly the same.
If your buddy has a the last generation 300ZX (90-97) I know exactly what happened. He probably has the first edition (late 89 - early 90) which was only made for a few months. They changed the brakes after only a few months of production because of constant warping of the rotor, hence the thicker rotors.
I can get you the corrct rotors if you need, just call me at the shop and i ll be glad to help you.
Sherwin
818 781 7777
If your buddy has a the last generation 300ZX (90-97) I know exactly what happened. He probably has the first edition (late 89 - early 90) which was only made for a few months. They changed the brakes after only a few months of production because of constant warping of the rotor, hence the thicker rotors.
I can get you the corrct rotors if you need, just call me at the shop and i ll be glad to help you.
Sherwin
818 781 7777
#15
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: encino
Posts: 1,792
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
BTW, you do not need to turn new rotors. This was a common practice back in the day but not any more. The new finishes on rotors today are good to go.
If you are looking for rotors for your S, hit up the Spugen guys
If you are looking for rotors for your S, hit up the Spugen guys
#16
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: The Beach, CA
Posts: 5,372
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
[QUOTE]Originally posted by docofmind
The first thing right off the bat you should have realized is that the new rotors are thicker than the original ones.
The first thing right off the bat you should have realized is that the new rotors are thicker than the original ones.
#18
Registered User
Pads always have a slight contact with the rotors, which is a good thing. Rick and others are dead-on that this is a QC/fitment issue from someone trying to dump parts without full disclosure - caveat emptor for sure on this one.
Also did you make sure to remove some of the brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir first? Always a good idea on a pad replacement. Paint and brake fluid make very poor bedfellows.
Also did you make sure to remove some of the brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir first? Always a good idea on a pad replacement. Paint and brake fluid make very poor bedfellows.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post