It's mounted safely beneath the kick plate by the ECU

 

Haven't had a single issue with my izze air pump delete, just to put something positive back in this thread

 

I'm sorry to resurrect such an old thread but I forgot to follow this conversation.

As I've now said many times, the simulator is only as good as the installation. You must triple check your connections (correct wire? secure connection? good ground?) and check the constant battery voltage source/wire with a voltmeter – as stated in the instructions. I only include the squeeze connectors for those who absolutely cannot solder, please solder if you can.

P1415 could be caused by an incorrect connection at the OEM white/black (ECM plug 31P, #24) wire. This OEM wire must be cut, and the white simulator wire must be attached to OEM white/black wire leading into the ECU (leave the other side of the white/black OEM wire unattached).

I understand wiring isn't for everyone. In designing this module, I tried to use as few connections as possible; however, I cannot make it any simpler than it is now. The USDM air pump monitoring system is quite complex, accordingly, it requires multiple connections. Out of all the simulators I've sold (and I've sold quite a lot) two customers had faulty ECU's, that is, they were throwing air pump CEL's because the transistor that controls the OEM red wire (plug 32P, terminal #2) had failed – before the simulator installation. All other issues were because of incorrect wiring or a blown fuse for the constant voltage source. If it's a USDM S2000, your ECU is good, and you installed it correctly, the simulator will work.

ookielookie,

Like Bill said, it's likely the detailer accidentally yanked/pulled one of the simulator wires loose. If you used the squeeze connectors, the connection is very susceptible to being unattached. Check all of the simulator connections and solder if you can. Please keep me posted.

Thanks,
Caleb

 

We cleared the CEL and it just never came back. If it comes up again I'll recheck all of the wiring.

 

Good to hear. If it's an intermittent problem, then it's very very likely a loose connection. If you ever need help, don't hesitate to contact me (I'll respond quickest via email).

 

Fantastic. Thank you, sir!

 

So.. I installed this kit and im getting the same code... my batt is good (13.25v) and the cable is throwing 12.45v and i still get the code...

ground im using with the voltmeter is the same one im using for the simulator so that mean it has good ground there... (I think)

I used the connectors I got with the kit... got the code... then i used the regular male and female connectors... code still there

I triple check the wiring myself and my friend did too...

All fuses are Good...

Oem white cable is correctly connected (ECU SIDE ONLY)

And still get P1415...

 

Those are my connections... everything is correctly wired and installed... i dont get whats wrong..

 

Those crappy crimp connections can get loose at times when they are jiggled or what not. I personally recommend sliding on some heat shrink sleeving over one of the wiring, soldiering the two ends together, then sliding the heat shrink sleeving over the joined wires, and shrinking it so that it's protected.

But yes, this too would drive me nuts.

 

To be honest I gave up on this a while back.. emission is due the 7th of this month and I cant do nothing to fix it...