I can almost guarantee you have air. I can't even count how many times I've seen this happen.

Unbolt-tip-open-bubbles-

 

I just had the exact same problem. I swapped out the 04 slave with an 03 slave. All was good and it seemed that the air was out. The clutch was a little soft and would not engage where it once did. I just lifted up the rear end of the car and all this air came out when I pumped it. Tightened up the valve and done. The clutch is just like it was before.

Great inexpensive mod.

Allan

 

I'm going to pull my fork to lube it as best I can today.

The slave will be off so I'll try and get all the air out.

Thanks...

 

Ive been trying to get the air out of my slave cyclinder for some time i've tried every method i could think of and still a soft peddle man i'm exhausted please help AP11

 

Billman,

Are you literally just holding the bleeder straight up, cracking the bleeder, and letting bubbles come out. Is there any pumping of the clutch pedal involved?

I replaced my slave cylinder after it failed and bled using XViper's method, but now my engagement point is close to the floor and I have more play at the beginning of pushing the clutch.

 

You have air, guaranteed.

Make sure the master is full.

Unbolt slave, point bleeder straight up, and open it. you'll see some fluid, then air.

No pumping at all. Gravity will push the air right out, and fast.

 

Thanks Billman! I'm on my way out to try it now.

 

Doing this method, I can't seem to make the bubbles ever completely stop. About every 15 seconds of bleeding, a small stream of bubbles will come through again. I'm having a hard time deciding if it's just a stubborn air pocket in the slave. As Billman describes, I unbolted the slave, angled, and let it bleed for a very long time. About 32oz of brake fluid over 45 minutes.

Before I bled the fluid, I noticed drips forming behind the pedal clutch master cylinder. After the bleed, the master cylinder was clean for two days, then a small drip was forming. I wiped it. It was clean for a few more days before I noticed a new drop forming 3 days later. So I have a very slow leak in the master cylinder, but Billman seems to indicate that CMC isn't usually the issue:

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/958...ylinder-issue/

My pedal actually feels great. It is consistent and it is firm. Fluid in the reservoir is consistent. No low engagement problems. But I do have notchy shifting (which Billman says is #1 a clutch hydraulic problem), even after tranny fluid, and shifter regrease, and clutch pedal free play adjustment. But it is a MY2000 so I am guaranteed to have the rusted input spline. I'm just trying to do everything to help my notchy shifting short of dropping the tranny. But I'd like to confirm that a replacement CMC will help before spending $100 on a new one.

What do you think? Is this small drip larger than the typical leak that Billman waves off? Is a leaky CMC causing the air bubbles? The slave is clean, no apparent fluid leaks. Clutch definitely seems fine, but I know there are bubbles present still. Is it worth it to pursue CMC?

 

why is it sometimes very difficult to bleed this, annyoing

 

It is not difficult, follow Billman's instructions.

As for the CMC, I decided to replace mine at around 80k miles and it seemed to help with the consistancy of the engagement point. They are not too expensive so if you want that piece of mind and the drip bothers you then its up to you.

FWIW the s2k is a pull type pressure plate, I've always driven push types. The mechanical part of my brain tells me they should behave exactly the same. But my left foot tells me they don't. /shrug