sounds like the previous owner abused the engine....probably ran low on oil...and knew it when he sold it to you. i'm sorry you had to go through all this, it really sucks.

 

yeah....i love this car and have wanted one for a long time..and finally saved up enough pennies for down payment and to finance her. Ive been fighting this misfire since the day i bought the car and now it comes down to this...major engine repair!!!! DANG

 

What numbers should i expect to have on my s2k..it has approx 87k on it for compression readings? are any of mine close?

 

Dang that sucks man I hope I won't be in the same boat. Everyone seems to know people on this site and are helpful so if you need a part I would just ask and you should have some luck.

BILLMAN- If I have the fuel trim read and it shows lean, which I can tell from the air/fuel ratio gauge, what are the steps to fixing a lean read. I have the VAFC II that I could use to make it run richer but I would need to get it to a dyno correct??

 

Shows lean.....so the fuel trim is reading positve, like +, and not - ? What are the long trim numbers....

 

Lude...reading the trim is not going to help at idle, you need to take the readings from the freeze data from the 5 codes. but it doesn't matter now.

If you have low compression, you likely have scored cyl walls or burn/barely bent valves. The best thing now would be to pull the head and see what the cyl walls look like. If they are perfect, then the head should be vac tested/disassembled and checked.

Just for the hell of it, did you check the valve clearance? It's near impossible that they are over tight from the factory, but a botched valve adjustment from a previous job could leave them tight.

 

Will i be able to tell if the cylinder/piston is damaged visually when i pull the head off? I want to make sure the bottom end is alright if im going to rebuilt/valve job the top end. Any idea what a machine shop gets for rebuild? If bottom end is good im considering just upgrading valves, springs, and retainers...possibly upgrader cams as well.

 

It may be possible to use a bore scope to inspect the cylinder walls without taking the head off. You will still need to tear it down regardless, but you may be able to assess what you are in for.

 

Any of you want to speculate in an informed way how a compression problem in one cylinder could cause random misfires in ALL cylinders?

I'm really curious how this could happen.

Are the sensors just that nonspecific? Or could a problem in one cylinder actually cause all of the other cylinders to randomly misfire?

 

[QUOTE=LATEOTT,Oct 4 2006, 10:02 PM]Any of you want to speculate in an informed way how a compression problem in one cylinder could cause random misfires in ALL cylinders?

I'm really curious how this could happen.

Are the sensors just that nonspecific?