i don't know about you all, but what really ticks me off is when i think i get everything together that i need for an install, and then there's one small deal i forgot that sets me back a week. i was hoping you could help me to keep that from happening.

i'm about to install a comptech sc w/ ac, comptech exhaust, and toda header. considering my usual slow and methodical speed, i'll prob turn out to be a two day affair, but what all should i have on hand to make it a success?

for example, i'll be switching over to synthetic when i do the install so i have some amsoil 10w30 on the way for the change and i'll hit the local shop for a k & n oil filter. should i also change out the spark plugs with this install?

is there any other advice or items that you remember you needed when you did your install?

 

Some 1 degree colder plugs would be good too. And make sure you have some coolant for the AC.

 

recommendations on both plugs and coolant are more than welcome.

 

I'm using NGK 7173's in my car. Non platinum and 1 range colder than stock. I am using Honda type 2 coolant (no mixing) in my aftercooler. As far as advice goes, Take your time and don't rush yourself.

 

There are so many little knick-knacks that you will need. Go through the install instructions and all your parts to see that you have all the tools at hand. I found a dremel tool came in handy in case you have a busted nut or bolt that needs to be cut off. For the header and exhaust thing, you'll need a new donut gasket, a new header to head gasket and maybe one or two extra cat bolts, in case you break one. Liquid Wrench will be your friend.
I've been using the stock plugs, gapped down to around 0.033" since March with no problems. I will be trying the NGK copper ones as posted in the spring.

 

It's actually not a bad install, but there are some "gotcha's". Most important - have the right tool to remove the crank pully.

Don't even think you can make do with standard tools. I managed to borrow the tool to lock the crank pully from my dealer, after I tried the following:

Did twenty minutes with a 1/2" impact wrench will budge it? Nope.

Did locking the engine from turning with the parking brake and using a 5-foot cheater bar loosen the bolt? Fat chance. The car rolled, even with the parking brake set.

Did having an assistant hold the brakes with the pedal will do it? NOT. The cheater bar will turn it's limit (hit the opposite fender) before the drive line tightened up enough to break that bolt loose.

Other hints here

One thing I've not updated on my web page: If Comptech is still supplying that crappy braided fuel line with the black shrink-wrap on it throw it away and replace it with some regular fuel injection hose and appropriate AN fittings. The Comptech line leaks fuel through the walls of the hose and you'll have an awful fuel odor that won't go away.

.

 

mod, that's just beautiful! i love that write up, and it definitely helps a lot. i don't like to go into something without being fully prepared, and that'll definitely be worth a 2nd read to make sure i didn't miss anything. tks, bro.