Chunky diff fluid
Originally Posted by SpitfireS,Nov 5 2007, 11:34 PM
scareyourpassenger Posted on Nov 6 2007, 04:13 AM
scareyourpassenger Posted on Nov 6 2007, 04:48 AM
Yeah..
Honda should have designed a rear end capable of handeling about 80% extra power.


scareyourpassenger Posted on Nov 6 2007, 04:48 AM
Yeah..
Honda should have designed a rear end capable of handeling about 80% extra power.


J
scareyourpassenger Posted on Nov 6 2007, 06:07 PM
On final drive ratio I agree!
4.10
What ratio is used in the Nissan diff?
It was mentioned by negcamber in the "Post Your Diff Failure" post that it's all about being smooth on the track, and that's where the S2000 was designed & made for (IMhO).
Even in the CR version the stock diff & ratio is used IIRC.
Strenghten the diff, and something else goes, because something else has to go.
If things never break, you've made them way to heavy
(something I've picked up in my RC model plane years)
... and gearing was already correct for the application.
4.10
What ratio is used in the Nissan diff?
It was mentioned by negcamber in the "Post Your Diff Failure" post that it's all about being smooth on the track, and that's where the S2000 was designed & made for (IMhO).
Even in the CR version the stock diff & ratio is used IIRC.
Strenghten the diff, and something else goes, because something else has to go.
If things never break, you've made them way to heavy
(something I've picked up in my RC model plane years)
Originally Posted by SpitfireS,Nov 6 2007, 01:09 PM
scareyourpassenger Posted on Nov 6 2007, 06:07 PM
On final drive ratio I agree!
4.10
What ratio is used in the Nissan diff?
It was mentioned by negcamber in the "Post Your Diff Failure" post that it's all about being smooth on the track, and that's where the S2000 was designed & made for (IMhO).
Even in the CR version the stock diff & ratio is used IIRC.
Strenghten the diff, and something else goes, because something else has to go.
If things never break, you've made them way to heavy
(something I've picked up in my RC model plane years)

On final drive ratio I agree!
4.10
What ratio is used in the Nissan diff?
It was mentioned by negcamber in the "Post Your Diff Failure" post that it's all about being smooth on the track, and that's where the S2000 was designed & made for (IMhO).
Even in the CR version the stock diff & ratio is used IIRC.
Strenghten the diff, and something else goes, because something else has to go.
If things never break, you've made them way to heavy
(something I've picked up in my RC model plane years)

I like 4.10..It must be the supercharger
The ap2 transmission makes more sense though. Lower the acceleration gears but keep the cruising gear so that the gas milage doesn't suffer. I agree weight savings is good but I would rather have the diff hold up. I was on a road course not a drag strip so there was none of the jolting type abuse.
Nissan diff may weigh in at 15-20lbs more but I could lose that just in wheels.
J
Originally Posted by SpitfireS,Nov 3 2007, 06:30 PM
ShocK Posted on Oct 28 2007, 03:15 AM
Did you use the "solid" no-crush distance collar or the OEM crush sleeve?
What was the pre-load on the pinion bearings?
(without the ring gear & LSD installed)
The OEM crush sleeve automaticly gets the proper lenght as it crushes while torqueing the lockingnut down (in small steps).
IMO the solid crush sleeve had to be shimmed to the correct lenght which gives the proper pre-load on the pinion bearings.
Was there a manual or installation instructions with the solid sleeve (if you used it.. that is)
ShocK Posted on Nov 3 2007, 09:37 PM
During decelaration the pinion is pulled into the ring.
Because of the hypoid gear design.
If that locking nut has moved it may introduce play.
Play where you don't want it.
animeS2K is right about the heat cycle and break-in miles.
You did that too?
During "advanced" break-in (I mean, after a while) and at operating temp it isn't so bad to every now & then step on it a little bit, but only once. a day or so.
Let the diff(oil) cool down afterwards, allthough once warm it doesn't realy cool down anymore with driving, not that much anyway.
Richmond changed the tooth design a little on the 4.57's to reduce noise.
They were called 4.57-R.
4.57 ring & pinion are 32:7, that never changed.
The 4.56's are a totally different gear set.
4.56 ring and pinion are 41:9
Closer to OEM tooth count (41:10).
Tooth shape and count are the reasons gears make noise IMO.
It creates harmonics, vibrations, resonances and sometimes they peak at certain revolutions.
When my 4.57-R's stop whining I'm getting worried....

Did you use the "solid" no-crush distance collar or the OEM crush sleeve?
What was the pre-load on the pinion bearings?
(without the ring gear & LSD installed)
The OEM crush sleeve automaticly gets the proper lenght as it crushes while torqueing the lockingnut down (in small steps).
IMO the solid crush sleeve had to be shimmed to the correct lenght which gives the proper pre-load on the pinion bearings.
Was there a manual or installation instructions with the solid sleeve (if you used it.. that is)
ShocK Posted on Nov 3 2007, 09:37 PM
During decelaration the pinion is pulled into the ring.
Because of the hypoid gear design.
If that locking nut has moved it may introduce play.
Play where you don't want it.
animeS2K is right about the heat cycle and break-in miles.
You did that too?
During "advanced" break-in (I mean, after a while) and at operating temp it isn't so bad to every now & then step on it a little bit, but only once. a day or so.
Let the diff(oil) cool down afterwards, allthough once warm it doesn't realy cool down anymore with driving, not that much anyway.
Richmond changed the tooth design a little on the 4.57's to reduce noise.
They were called 4.57-R.
4.57 ring & pinion are 32:7, that never changed.
The 4.56's are a totally different gear set.
4.56 ring and pinion are 41:9
Closer to OEM tooth count (41:10).
Tooth shape and count are the reasons gears make noise IMO.
It creates harmonics, vibrations, resonances and sometimes they peak at certain revolutions.
When my 4.57-R's stop whining I'm getting worried....

My diff is still out of the car.... this sux.... I waited two weeks for another shim, but I only got one, and it was still too thick. So now I'm getting a whole set of shims from 3.91mm down to the minimum setting, hopefully. Coming from Japan, last time it only took 2 days so hopefully by Friday I'll have my shim and get the one I need... because it sux waiting for parts and not being able to drive my car! haha
Originally Posted by scareyourpassenger,Nov 28 2007, 09:55 PM
I am leaving the fi club. If it isn't the diff it will be something else. Honda obviously designed this car for stock power levels if that.
J
J
Reinforce the diff, axles, driveshaft, clutch, pressure plate... Then the weak spot is the transmission... I guess it all depends on how serious you want to get and how much power you want to put down... and how you want to drive it.




