I agree...very simple and easy to fix...as well as to accidently mess it up like you have. No worries...and I agree, I wouldn't mind autoxing the car if this were the problem. However, not knowing the problem I would be disconcerted about autoxing it

 

I would find out what the DTC is before clearing the CEL. I recently cleaned my throttle body/butterfly using the Honda Throttle Plate and Induction Cleaner part# 08732-9009, no problems. What did you use to clean yours? I notice the Honda can says catalytic converter and oxygen sensor safe, I'm curious if your DTC's are O2 sensor or emissions related. I also followed the directions on the can, however I noticed that they are were different than some people on the forums suggest. I never sprayed anything with the engine running. Also, I wasn't cleaning the TB because I had an idle problem.

 

Warren, lets say you happen to have a 10 year/ 100,000 thousand mile warantee on your car. you auto-X it with the CEL; it goes into limp mode and gets seriosuly messed up. You take it to your local Honda dealer and they ask what happened. Will you reply with "EK9 on S2Ki.com said it would be okay to auto cross it with a CEL"?

im with ROLLINS and all the others up for you getting the code checked. it takes less than 10 minutes at autozone or advanced auto, and its free.

 

Com'on guys...lay off EK9. He's new to our community but his posts show he has a lot of knowledge. He logically explained his reasoning...if you disagree, don't make it personal, just post your reasons.

 

Thanks for all the comments. Okay, an update:

I cleaned the TB using a can of Gumout Throttle Body cleaner spray.

The car ran just fine with the light on as I let it idle in the garage (door open of course) then I revved it up a little, to around 3k rpm, still everything seemed smooth. I decided to give it a try while keeping an eye on the CEL while going to the event, about 40 miles from me.

Again, the car ran normal, no problems at all and the CEL didn't start blinking so I decided to to the autox (Phila Region).

Came in 1st place in AS while checking the CEL and how the engine is running, again no problems.

I went to a Pep Boys to check the CEL but they didn't have a tech available to do it. I have another autox Sunday morning (DC Region), I'll get the CEL checked tomorrow after the event.

Bottom line is I'm keeping an eye on it and if the CEL starts flashing or the car starts acting strange, I'll shut it down and get it towed, otherwise I'm proceeding as normal. I want to pull the CEL tomorrow before I reflash the ECU. I'm thinking the CEL just wants to let me know there was an issue even if it has cleared up.

BTW, I checked the ancillary hoses that I removed and they're all connected in the right places. I only pulled 2 hoses besides the main tube from the air cleaner to the TB and they were different diameters so it would be impossible to confuse them.

We'll see how things go Sunday but I'm not anticipating any major trouble.

Warren

 

Hey WarrenW,

Being a Honda tech, I'll let you know that spraying throttle body cleaner down the intake is not going to do anything good for you. I've seen customers' cars throw a code very soon after that service. Most of the time, either a O2 sensor code or a IAC code. By shooting excess gas down the throttle body, you can damage your O2 sensor and/or your cataylst.

Even using Honda's approved fluid is going to cause problems if used incorrectly.

The proper way I do is,
With the car off, spray the throttle body cleaner on a clean rag and wipe inside and around the throttle body.

Also, a flashing MIL is a bad thing and is only for cataylst damaging misfire. I recommend you not going autocrossing until you know why that light is on.

 

I'd just pick up a cheap code reader/reseter. Then you never have to worry again. Read the code, check the honda manual and see what it says.

Tommy, how do you clean out the IAC. Take it off and clean it off the car?

One of the problems with CEL's in general is they've cheapened the meaning of a CEL. Now that something as petty as loose gas cap can trigger it. It's like the boy who cried wolf. Used to be, I'd get a CEL and pull over and check the car. Nowadays, I just figure I didn't tighten the gas cap enough and keep driving. As long as it's still running right. I just keep going.

There's no excuse for not printing out, in english the code and what the code means, somewhere on the dash. I know it's to protect us idiots from ourselves.

 

Okay, the car ran well today even though I finished 7th at the DC Region autox. I went to AutoZone and had the code pulled (Pep Boys said they wanted $85 and their guy wasn't available til Tuesday).

The code was a P0108 - Map Sensor "high input". Not sure what that means, is it registering a high input pressure or a high input voltage?

I'm guessing I was supposed to remove the MAP sensor before I used the spray. AutoZone said a new MAP sensor was something like $128 or so.

So what do you guys think?

Warren

 

$128 for a map sensor????


You can get it for 1/2 that from HardTopGuy and its OEM:

http://www.hardtopguy.com/store/product.ph...5&cat=53&page=1

 

Ek9 Posted on Aug 13 2006, 09:40 PM
We need a larger dash to have all this printed on it:
DTC index list


WarrenW Posted on Aug 13 2006, 10:44 PM
In the list I linked to it says: High volatge.
I guess it is damaged, from what I read it is pretty delicate.
Allthough it is ok to "whack" it, it isn't ok to try and clean the insides.
Doing that will surely ruin the very thin silicon chip inside it.