clunking in rear after upgrading spring rates and changing ride height
#21
Had the metal on metal noise from the front when i installed my Ohlins. Turns out the tophat bolt (one in the middle) was loose. Used an impact and tightened it, problem solved. Also the top of the strut has a spot for an allen wrench to keep the shock from spinning so you dont have to grab the strut itself, i would be scared to scratch it.
I've taken the shocks off the car again and I'll retorque in a more intelligent manner (using 5mm allen key to lock the shaft).
I've also reduced preload slightly from 12mm to 10mm, even still it is quite a lot.
Hopefully with everything torqued properly I'll be fine.
#22
Never use pliers or anything else on the smooth shock shaft. Use a box wrench and an allen key.
If you want the accuracy of a torque wrench, use a crow foot socket, set so it points sideways (that will keep torque reading accurate), along with the allen key.
If you want the accuracy of a torque wrench, use a crow foot socket, set so it points sideways (that will keep torque reading accurate), along with the allen key.
#23
Y'all are some reckless heathens.
One guy is using PLIERS on the shock shaft (!??!?!?!!?!?). That's pure insanity, bruv. If the shock is not leaking, I'll be tickled with surprise. Did you at least use the portion at the very top of the shaft where the bumpstop rides?
and an other person is using an impact on the shock shaft. This is a really really terrible idea.
What's important, though...is that I was correct AF about the noise source.
One guy is using PLIERS on the shock shaft (!??!?!?!!?!?). That's pure insanity, bruv. If the shock is not leaking, I'll be tickled with surprise. Did you at least use the portion at the very top of the shaft where the bumpstop rides?
and an other person is using an impact on the shock shaft. This is a really really terrible idea.
What's important, though...is that I was correct AF about the noise source.
#24
BTW, a non preloaded spring doesn't clunk when the car is sitting on it. For that to be the source of the clunk, the situation would have to be very unusual and very specific.
#25
Y'all are some reckless heathens.
One guy is using PLIERS on the shock shaft (!??!?!?!!?!?). That's pure insanity, bruv. If the shock is not leaking, I'll be tickled with surprise. Did you at least use the portion at the very top of the shaft where the bumpstop rides?
and an other person is using an impact on the shock shaft. This is a really really terrible idea.
What's important, though...is that I was correct AF about the noise source.
One guy is using PLIERS on the shock shaft (!??!?!?!!?!?). That's pure insanity, bruv. If the shock is not leaking, I'll be tickled with surprise. Did you at least use the portion at the very top of the shaft where the bumpstop rides?
and an other person is using an impact on the shock shaft. This is a really really terrible idea.
What's important, though...is that I was correct AF about the noise source.
Anyway, everything is torqued way down now (with the use of 5mm allen key).
Won't be able to testdrive until tomorrow (hopefully). But I'm pretty sure everything is as it should be now.
(BTW, I originally put the shock in a vice and used the preload lock ring to torque down preload.. that is what caused the nylon nut to loosen originally. That was the stuff of an ultra-heathen.
But I learned the right way to set preload with this SBG howto video:
Last edited by snitm; 04-07-2018 at 02:40 PM.
#28
Anyway, just drove the car after getting everything properly installed. I'm happy with the result using 12kg w/ 2mm preload front and 10kg w/ 10mm preload rear. Ride is stiff but not overly so (using 16 and 14 clicks from hard, front and back respectively). Glided over some nasty New England roads quite nicely.
#30