clutch adjustment question
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From: Honolulu
clutch adjustment question
can anybody tell me if its ok to change the clutch freeplay by adjusting the part where if you look up by the clutch, the clutch is resting on a small piece of black rubber which is attached at the end of a bolt?? i tried adjusting the clutch engagement but it doesnt really help with the freeplay. then i tried to adjust the other part i was asking about and it got rid of all clutch freeplay.
thanks ,
Steven
thanks ,
Steven
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From: Davie, FL
It's not clear from your description, but free play is not adjusted where the linkage enters the bellhousing.
In order for your clutch to operate properly, you must have at least 1/2" of free play in the pedal. If you have adjusted all of the free play out of the system, you risk burning the clutch since it will not fully engage.
In order for your clutch to operate properly, you must have at least 1/2" of free play in the pedal. If you have adjusted all of the free play out of the system, you risk burning the clutch since it will not fully engage.
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From: Long Island, New York
This is the most commonly misunderstood system.
There is only one correct setting.
If you push on the clutch pedal lightly with your finger, while looking under the dash at the back of the master, you'll see two different "freeplays". One is play between the rod and the master. This should be removed. Crack the nut loose with a 12mm open end, and take out the play by turning the rod with your fingers. Then tighen the locknut.
The other is the built-in freeplay in the master (the 1/2" or so Coral Doc is talking about), in which you'll see play in the piston itself moving in and out a little. This is normal, and should NOT be removed.
There is only one correct setting.
If you push on the clutch pedal lightly with your finger, while looking under the dash at the back of the master, you'll see two different "freeplays". One is play between the rod and the master. This should be removed. Crack the nut loose with a 12mm open end, and take out the play by turning the rod with your fingers. Then tighen the locknut.
The other is the built-in freeplay in the master (the 1/2" or so Coral Doc is talking about), in which you'll see play in the piston itself moving in and out a little. This is normal, and should NOT be removed.
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From: Queen City, NC
Originally Posted by Billman250,Oct 17 2005, 04:55 PM
This is the most commonly misunderstood system.
There is only one correct setting.
If you push on the clutch pedal lightly with your finger, while looking under the dash at the back of the master, you'll see two different "freeplays". One is play between the rod and the master. This should be removed. Crack the nut loose with a 12mm open end, and take out the play by turning the rod with your fingers. Then tighen the locknut.
The other is the built-in freeplay in the master (the 1/2" or so Coral Doc is talking about), in which you'll see play in the piston itself moving in and out a little. This is normal, and should NOT be removed.
There is only one correct setting.
If you push on the clutch pedal lightly with your finger, while looking under the dash at the back of the master, you'll see two different "freeplays". One is play between the rod and the master. This should be removed. Crack the nut loose with a 12mm open end, and take out the play by turning the rod with your fingers. Then tighen the locknut.
The other is the built-in freeplay in the master (the 1/2" or so Coral Doc is talking about), in which you'll see play in the piston itself moving in and out a little. This is normal, and should NOT be removed.
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Joined: Oct 2000
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From: Davie, FL
Items 1 & 2 in your photo allow adjustment of the clutch interlock switch that prevent the starting of the car unless the clutch pedal is depressed. The rod that enters the clutch master cylinder that Billman is talking about is 3. I've never adjusted it, so I cannot advise you further.
