S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Clutch Bleeding - Help, AIR!!!

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Old Sep 6, 2002 | 10:54 AM
  #11  
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That sucks! If you're going to drive with it the way it is, you can always adjust the clutch pedal to raise the engagement point. I adjusted mine a while back to remove the free play. If you look at 12-4 in the Helm's manual, adjusting part B and E will raise / lower the pedal and / or raise / lower the engagement point.
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Old Sep 9, 2002 | 02:19 PM
  #12  
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Well, here's the verdict:

Doing just that, I adjusted the pedal to see if I could make it more driveable. I turned the pushrods a few turns (lightly) until I could feel a little resistance (indicating I was building pressure. Was something like 4 or 5 turns. I backed it off a turn to be safe (a little free play) and tried it. It now engaged/disengaged at the TOP of the pedal travel. After messing with it, I found that it only took about 1 turn from where it was originally to remove the dead play and get it to where it needed to be.

I'm still baffled as to how my fluid flushing affected this, but I'm glad it's fixed. I have never messed with the adjustment before!
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Old Sep 9, 2002 | 03:16 PM
  #13  
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Did you do this BEFORE the DE? Do you think that there is any air in the system? Did the clutch function any better or worse than it did before the flush?
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Old Sep 18, 2002 | 07:11 AM
  #14  
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Do you have any tips to prevent this from happening? I am planning on bleeding mine this weekend. Is there anything that makes it more difficult than bleeding the brakes?
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Old Oct 26, 2002 | 01:42 PM
  #15  
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by marcucci
[B]Well, here's the verdict:
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Old Nov 1, 2002 | 12:17 AM
  #16  
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FYI: I bled the clutch fluid again with the back of the car jacked up (higher than the front) and that seemed to fix the problem.
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Old Nov 1, 2002 | 04:33 AM
  #17  
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Not sure if you guys read my last post, but I fixed it with a pushrod adjustment, it wasn't air.

When I did it, I checked pedal height which was fine. I then went to the pushrod adjustment and dialed out the dead play. This moved the engagement point so far up that I was uncomfortable with it... so I adjusted by "feel" to move the point more to where it was. That's when I found the adjustment was just barely off.

cdelena told me he once blew out his slave cylinder at Texas World Speedway (on the track), one of the bolts backed out (shoddy dealer work). He found a bolt, popped the piston back in it, then bled the system by himself by pumping and adding fluid. He said it worked fine.
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Old Nov 1, 2002 | 06:06 AM
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by marcucci
[B]Well, here's the verdict:
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Old Nov 1, 2002 | 06:24 AM
  #19  
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The only fault I see with that is that the engagement point should have moved closer to the top of the pedal, then, rather than closer to the floor. I agree that something was up, though, since the pedal adjustment never changed before!
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Old Nov 1, 2002 | 07:02 AM
  #20  
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Originally posted by marcucci
The only fault I see with that is that the engagement point should have moved closer to the top of the pedal, then, rather than closer to the floor. I agree that something was up, though, since the pedal adjustment never changed before!
You are absolutely correct. So what type of compressible hydraulic fluid did you use?

j/k of course. This sounds like one of lifes' little mysteries.

How difficult was it to adjust the engagement point fo the pedal? It sounded like the adjustment was fairly touchy/sensitive?

Thanks,
Bob
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