ZachS45

This might be kind of long but its because i cannot explain it very well so im trying to give all the details as i think of them and not really in any order. My clutch pedal has a VERY SHORT engagement point and it always seems to either change or kind of bounce (if that makes sense) when i fully release the clutch. I do not change my seat position and i never had this problem in my 1st s2k and its kind of a new issue in this one thats been getting worse. Its not a driver error because i drive everything from dump trucks with trailers at work to zl1 camaros etc (all stick). I replaced my cmc not too long ago because the old one was leaking and i have changed / bled the clutch fluid so many times it cant be that. My slave cylinder is not leaking. the pedal does not need to be adjusted because i have the little bit of play at the top to make sure its fully engaging. Also sometimes when im driving really slow it almost feels as if im on a bumpy road even if im not so idk if that would mean that my flywheel is warped or something, and i dont meany bumpy as if im about to stall but more like just not a very smooth spinning flywheel. I hope that makes sense. i just also recently noticed that when i start my car now, the engine shakes as it drops below idle then it finally catches up to the idle like normal. Another big thing is that sometimes when the clutch is pushed all the way in and i go to put it in first the car tries to jerk forward quite a bit. And lastly when shifting from first to second the tranny makes a pretty loud clunk, not so much like a bad noise just sounds like im using a lot of force to put it in. Someone told me it could be loose tranny mounts, i havent checked but is that something that could be possible? and i almost forgot the other day just driving normally i went to shift to fourth gear, i pushed the clutch all the way in and as i went to put it in fourth i grinded the shit out of the gear, with the clutch IN. it never slips out of gear or anything and my tranny has never had any metal shavings so something is seriously wrong with my clutch/pp/flywheel. how would i be able to fix my clutch issue where the engagement is very unreliable and has a TINY window of opportunity. My clutch occasionally slips if i am full throttle and im shifting like a mad man but to me i feel like the problem im having is with the pressure plate not working properly. Im not a mechanic so im not entirely sure if that is possible. I have 86000 miles and i change oil about every 3000-5000 miles and i used to do tranny and diff fluids at the same time but lately i do them every other oil change. Thank you in advance and sorry for how everywhere this post is, just dont know a better way to translate my problems. If you want me to be more specific in order to help i will try my best.

clio

It sounds like you've got a few issues to deal with. Perhaps IACV, something in the clutch system (are all components oem?) + whatever else. Perhaps take it to LHT Performance or another reputable mechanic if it seems like too much that you want to deal with.

Soviet

You should try breaking apart that wall of text into easy to consume issues.

One thing I got out of there is that you said the clutch slips when you're getting on it. You didn't tell us what year your S2000 is but if its an AP2 your clutch slave cylinder has a clutch delay valve that will give you those symptoms when shifting real fast.

B serious

Trying to put it in 1st gear and the car lurches forward. Clunking into 2nd. Grinding into 4th with the clutch pushed in. Tiny window between engagement/disengagement.

This tells pretty much the whole story. The clutch is not disengaging fully for some reason.

Is it an aftermarket clutch?

If you are 110% for sure confident that your pedal freeplay is set correctly to 6mm and that your lines are free of air.

The next easiest thing to do is to check under the car while someone else presses the clutch. Is the slave cylinder stroking back and forth adequately?

If it is.....

Its time to drop the trans and buy a clutch set/release bearing/guide sleeve/pilot bearing from a Honda dealer. Pick up some HT urea grease as well.

I would stop driving it hard for sure. I would probably not drive it at all til its fixed.

ZachS45

I can mess with my pedal some more maybe i adjusted it incorrectly but i am 100 percent sure theres no air in the lines. As soon as my semester ends in 3 weeks and i dont drive to class every other day im dropping the trans and replacing everything i can while im in there. Everything as far as i know is stock. Ive got an 05 and im going with ACT HD pp, Brand New Ap1 Flywheel, oem clutch, oem pilot bearing, oem throwout bearing, and ill probably get all new bolts as well. I was going to try and make it last until the summer which is why i posted this but i think now im going to have to tear into it in the next couple weeks. Thank you and ill check my pedal one more time as well as the slave. I also read somewhere that when i pull the driveshaft i need new bolts every time?

B serious

You don't need driveshaft bolts every time. Its just that they're easy to round off. FWIW, they're easy NOT to round off too.

Also, since youre buying an ACT PP....definitely consider a clutch interlock bypass switch. Use a momentary push button that bypasses the need to push the clutch in to start the car.

Soviet

If you have the right tools, no need for new driveshaft bolts. Also might want to pick up an AP1 clutch slave cylinder if you want to get rid of that clutch slipping symptom. The AP1 does not have a clutch delay valve.

ZachS45

Thanks to both of you. I will pick up the Ap1 slave as well if thats going to help. and i already have the switch bypassed because the plastic pad broke and i couldnt for the life of me reach my hand up to replace it.
Thank you for the help, honestly i think the biggest thing is the clutch slipping and that delay valve might be the issue in the trans because i feel the synchros alot when i shift. its only a smooth but notchy shift when im super high in rpms.

Car Analogy

You can also just remove the cdv from the ap2 slave, instead of buying a cast iron ap1 slave. There is a diy.

Your biggest issue isn't cultch slipping, its the opposite, as very clearly summarized by B Serious, your clutch is not fully disengaging when you press the pedal.

I suspect you have an aftermarket clutch disk in there, and its going bad in the classic way they all do, a spring is startimg to break off, and its dragging. It will only get worse, but it will also be intermittent. Sometimes it will be really bad, then it'll get a little better, then worse again.

If its this, your plan to replace clutch will address it. Meanwhile, if its this, there are two things you can do to limp it along a little while longer. Both involve maximizing the throw at the slave end when you press the pedal:

1. Remove the excessive pedal play. The proper rod play is zero. There is already proper play built into the MC. Adjust rod longer until it just touches back of mc, the piston. There should be zero play when pressing pedal before mc starts to move.

2. Raise your clutch pedal height. This will increase stroke, and maximize clutch movement. You adjust pedal height by adjusting the stop, which is also a clutch interlock switch . So you unplug the switch wires, loosen switch lock nut, then unscrew switch so pedal height increases. Then lock it down with lock nit and reconnect wiring.

Also, being rough on the clutch will make the spring fully break loose sooner. So drive it easy. Easy on takeoff, shift smooth, don't rev it out much, etc.

afzan

You really don't need to remove the CDV to avoid slip, you just need to change your technique. I used to have problems with the CDV a lot on track and I changed my timing slightly and the problem went away