Clutch / Flywheel / PP Issues?
Its an each his own thing. I think some do it just because they think its a nanny, without really understanding what the change actually does.
You can also just remove the cdv from the ap2 slave, instead of buying a cast iron ap1 slave. There is a diy.
Your biggest issue isn't cultch slipping, its the opposite, as very clearly summarized by B Serious, your clutch is not fully disengaging when you press the pedal.
I suspect you have an aftermarket clutch disk in there, and its going bad in the classic way they all do, a spring is startimg to break off, and its dragging. It will only get worse, but it will also be intermittent. Sometimes it will be really bad, then it'll get a little better, then worse again.
If its this, your plan to replace clutch will address it. Meanwhile, if its this, there are two things you can do to limp it along a little while longer. Both involve maximizing the throw at the slave end when you press the pedal:
1. Remove the excessive pedal play. The proper rod play is zero. There is already proper play built into the MC. Adjust rod longer until it just touches back of mc, the piston. There should be zero play when pressing pedal before mc starts to move.
2. Raise your clutch pedal height. This will increase stroke, and maximize clutch movement. You adjust pedal height by adjusting the stop, which is also a clutch interlock switch . So you unplug the switch wires, loosen switch lock nut, then unscrew switch so pedal height increases. Then lock it down with lock nit and reconnect wiring.
Also, being rough on the clutch will make the spring fully break loose sooner. So drive it easy. Easy on takeoff, shift smooth, don't rev it out much, etc.
Your biggest issue isn't cultch slipping, its the opposite, as very clearly summarized by B Serious, your clutch is not fully disengaging when you press the pedal.
I suspect you have an aftermarket clutch disk in there, and its going bad in the classic way they all do, a spring is startimg to break off, and its dragging. It will only get worse, but it will also be intermittent. Sometimes it will be really bad, then it'll get a little better, then worse again.
If its this, your plan to replace clutch will address it. Meanwhile, if its this, there are two things you can do to limp it along a little while longer. Both involve maximizing the throw at the slave end when you press the pedal:
1. Remove the excessive pedal play. The proper rod play is zero. There is already proper play built into the MC. Adjust rod longer until it just touches back of mc, the piston. There should be zero play when pressing pedal before mc starts to move.
2. Raise your clutch pedal height. This will increase stroke, and maximize clutch movement. You adjust pedal height by adjusting the stop, which is also a clutch interlock switch . So you unplug the switch wires, loosen switch lock nut, then unscrew switch so pedal height increases. Then lock it down with lock nit and reconnect wiring.
Also, being rough on the clutch will make the spring fully break loose sooner. So drive it easy. Easy on takeoff, shift smooth, don't rev it out much, etc.
6mm is the measurable freeplay. 0 is effective.
Set it to 6. If you try to set it to 0, you risk preloading the master cylinder.
Setting it to 6mm makes the actual freeplay inside the system 0.
Set it to 6. If you try to set it to 0, you risk preloading the master cylinder.
Setting it to 6mm makes the actual freeplay inside the system 0.
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