Clutch Help
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Joined: Jan 2011
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" Thanks for the reply. I just snapped a couple photos of the clutch master cylinder and it does seem to be very low as you can see in the pics. I guess the bright side is, we found the issue. I do not see any leaks...What kind of oil can I buy to fill this back up? Thanks for the help! "
I'd use OEM Honda DOT 3 Brake fluid for the clutch hydraulics. It's also common for the fluid level to drop (sometimes a lot), as the clutch disc wears out. Also, common for the engaging pressure to feel heavier. The pressure plate loses lever angle advantage, as the disc wears out and the fingers in the plate move further forward to meet the disc. Actually, I've had cars where the clutch fluid level drops faster, when disc wears out... than the brake fluid level as the brakes pucks wear out.
http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda-...da+brake+fluid
I'd use OEM Honda DOT 3 Brake fluid for the clutch hydraulics. It's also common for the fluid level to drop (sometimes a lot), as the clutch disc wears out. Also, common for the engaging pressure to feel heavier. The pressure plate loses lever angle advantage, as the disc wears out and the fingers in the plate move further forward to meet the disc. Actually, I've had cars where the clutch fluid level drops faster, when disc wears out... than the brake fluid level as the brakes pucks wear out.
http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda-...da+brake+fluid
All of the help from you guys is great. I will do some research in the FAQs section and see if this is something that I can do myself. In the meantime I will try simply filling up the master cylinder with DOT3 and bleeding it out.
Joined: Jul 2013
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Open clutch master reservoir cap, use syringe or turkey baster to remove old fluid, add new clean fluid. Go under car safely, remove bleeder cap, attach clear plastic hose to end of bleeder, place the other end of hose into an empty receptacle, use 8mm open end wrench to crack bleeder open. Allow gravity to drain fluid, once fluid flows out clean close bleeder, top off fluid, close master reservoir cap.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 386
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Open clutch master reservoir cap, use syringe or turkey baster to remove old fluid, add new clean fluid. Go under car safely, remove bleeder cap, attach clear plastic hose to end of bleeder, place the other end of hose into an empty receptacle, use 8mm open end wrench to crack bleeder open. Allow gravity to drain fluid, once fluid flows out clean close bleeder, top off fluid, close master reservoir cap.
Joined: Sep 2014
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Bleeder is the nipple with 8mm hex head, upper right side of slave, in photo. Opening this = fluid to flow. Attach hose to nipple.
Unless you are built like Thinman, I recommend lifting the car off the ground, onto jack stands.
http://images.wrenchead.com/smartpag...C360112-11.jpg
Unless you are built like Thinman, I recommend lifting the car off the ground, onto jack stands.
http://images.wrenchead.com/smartpag...C360112-11.jpg
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 5,731
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Originally Posted by Slowcrash_101' timestamp='1412685640' post='23359609
Open clutch master reservoir cap, use syringe or turkey baster to remove old fluid, add new clean fluid. Go under car safely, remove bleeder cap, attach clear plastic hose to end of bleeder, place the other end of hose into an empty receptacle, use 8mm open end wrench to crack bleeder open. Allow gravity to drain fluid, once fluid flows out clean close bleeder, top off fluid, close master reservoir cap.
It also doesn't hurt to put something as a failsafe in case the jackstands fail, like the jack itself, or a big block of wood.
Or if you have a mechanic buddy, bribe him into using his lift this would be the best case scenario.
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Granville OH