Billman250

ALL S2000s will leak clutch fluid if not serviced for long periods. Regular fluid replacements will stop the leak.

I have replaced ONE clutch MC in 16 years, ZERO slave cylinders.

Your original problem was low fluid, and air. A simple cleanout, top-up, and bleed was all you needed.

I guarantee you have air in the system now, as the S2000 clutch system is very tricky to bleed.

I have seem ZERO "pressure plates going out" in 16 years.

TRY rapid pumping the clutch pedal 40 times, see if your problem doesn't disappear.

stock06

Hey Tiger,

Would you be able to try the following, after what Billman recommended above (if needed)? It is not very difficult, just a little time and patience:


Also, what area are you in as there may be a forum member that could help or at least make a local recommendation?

Best of luck!

Michael

s2000Junky

Also to piggy back off Billman and one of your original questions - Yes the clutch is "fully" adjustable in that you can adjust where in the pedal stroke the clutch will engage as well as the pedal free play, these adjustments however do influence one another and there is really only one adjustment for proper working of the clutch with little variance. I agree as Billman stated its likely still air in the line which needs to be bled, but there is also the other variable that one of the mechanics monkeyed with the clutch adjustment rod and ended up created way too much free play not allowing the clutch to fully disengage upon depressing. Absolutely make sure the clutch is fully bled before moving to the adjustment so you don't create any issues - if you go to adjust to compensate only to have it change and drag on you once the air becomes bled. But make sure the clutch adjustment rod as well as top out 'stop' are in proper placement for the right engagement point and top of pedal position relative to the brake pedal.

The clutch system is a short run, and I always had great results by simply performing the gravity bleed method. Shouldn't be that hard to get done yourself and then can verify its fully bled and know whether you need to move on to the adjustment or not.

tiger1964

(A) Tried the rapid pump just now, 120 "reps". Still low, etc, again the clutch "works" but frightfully low. Also, I think that, originally, I let the system get too low, so this is "user error". All subsequent problems might stem from this.

Thanks. Might try it over the weekend. Bottom line is I need to establish if I'm getting taken for a ride over the clutch replacement, at this point.

windhund116

120 rapid pumps? Isn't there a simpler cure? Maybe like the video? Anyhow, I found this link:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-br...method-993927/

Car Analogy

On many cars, you need to adjust in adequate play. On this car there is adequate play internal to the mc. So proper adjustment is zero external play.

This is super easy to do, and only requires a 12 mm open end wrench and flexible spine to get yourself wedged down under dash. Also young eyes that can still well see up close (even with my bifocals I can't really see what I'm doing down there. Your head is simply too close to the work and I canno longer see clearly at that distance. But this task is easy enough to do blindfolded).

There is an excellent youtube how to video. If you know someone younger and pliable and able to see up close, that knows the difference between the box end and open end of the wrench, have them watch the video and promise a special six pack when they're done. No need to go to mechanic that will just wrongly think they know better than some internet shade tree idiots.

I bet the current issue is air in the lines and clutch rod outta adjustment.

stock06

DIYGuys pretty good videos, short and sweet,




Easy procedure if you don’t get in a hurry.

tiger1964

Of course, I'm 63 years old and all kinds of fun things happening with my spine as it is. Or, just maybe, the car would never have been to a shop in the first place. All good input, however!

noodels

Remove slave cylinder and do a gravity bleed.

tiger1964

Just got the car back from the local shop. No new pressure plate, they did a "manual pedal adjustment", which they should have done in the first place; one of the things I suggested based on the input I got here. OK, I'll never get my $1000 back, but a lesson learned.

Longer-term, need a couple of things done at the independent Honda Guy shop, for one thing it's probably time for another valve adjustment. I'll ask him if he thinks it needs further bleeding then.

Thanks, all, for the advice!