Torque value for the PP bolts?

 

ne'er mind, dun found it.

 

Wow. this is amazing. Thanks! Im gona do this over summer. It seems to be much more complex compared to my SS camaro one!

 

Never done a clutch job in my life and am not sure why the hell I decided for my first time to be on my ap1, its taking me a while but if I ever had to do it again i think I can have it done in a day other than 3 weeks that it has been taking me haha. This helped me a lot thanks!

 

The thread that keeps on giving. I used this as well as some other threads too.

One thing not covered here was the 3 upper tranny bolts. If you lower the sub frame, take off the tranny support bar and push the trans UP it will tilt the engine forward. At this point you can use a LONG HANDLE closed end wrench to get to those bolts.(Passenger and Center Top) The drivers upper the one that holds the wiring harness I used a short socket with a U-joint. Deep socket got stuck and couldn't seat correctly on the bolt.

 

First off - great writeup! This has inspired me to take on this challenge myself. That said - there are a few questions I have around details before starting. (Forgive me if these are things that will become apparent once in the install.)

Step 12 - Loosen exhaust manifold bolts at head 12mm - How many are there?
Step 8 - Remove O2 sensors from trans. - are there 5 exactly?
step 12 - remove subframe bolts. How many are there, and can you provide context on where this is?
Step 17 - Now its time to support the subframe. - How do you know exactly how far to back out the bolts based on the threads?
For the flywheel removal - what type of tool did you use to remove the bolts?
And finally, is an impact wrench critical to the job?

Thanks for providing this resource to the forum, mbilderback - this is awesome!

 

You remove the two center subframe bolts, and back the other four out by three inches. Use a tape measure to measure from the frame to the head of the bolt, and keep going till you back them out three inches. You don't have to be precise.

The flywheel bolts are 12-point heads. Use a 12-point socket to remove them.

I did the entire swap without an impact gun or any air tools whatsoever, and am currently doing it again the same way (all hand tools).

 

I'm bringing an old thread back to life here but for those who have done this, how did you manage the lock the engine to retorque the fly wheel and pressure plate? I'm getting ready to do mine. Thanks in advance guys.

 

There is a holder that locks it that you may be able to borrow from the parts store. I have just put a socket and bar on the front of the crank to hold it.

 

I just used a big screwdriver in the teeth of the flywheel. You can put a trans bolt in the motor just to the left of the starter. Use the bolt and the starter to brace the screwdriver. This did take a second set of hands.