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Sorry, no way a 2lb reduction in flywheel gave you a 2 car gap. Just not gonna happen. That is bordeline hondatech talk right there to be quite blunt. I have tracked this car for years, so I think I would notice if I gained that much acceleration via track times (hint, nope, not nearly that much change). You are looking at the amount of change to just the flywheels rotational inertia and ignoring the fact you have to account for ALL of the engine and drive train rotational inertia, including the wheels and tires. So that 2 lbs change is out of all of it, not just the flywheel, which is why you notice the effects on rev matching WAY more than any impact on acceleration.
I HAVE an 8lb flywheel and have not just heard things about it. A few highly exaggerate the negatives. If I just drove mine on the street in the city all the time would I do it? No but I would not go to a 12 lb either. Honestly I think the 12lb is mostly a waste of time and money. It took me about one launch to completely adjust to the 8 lb unit and honestly cannot tell the difference after that other than with clutch in when rev matching. There is an impact on lauch, but honestly you adjust quickly to that. The positive effects on rev matching though are completely worth it on track though.. Still not the earth shattering impact some expect though, but a benefit.
If you are buying a good flywheel, it is more than $120 these days. But a Pro lite is still cheaper than OEM last I checked. But more expensive than having the OEM resurfaced.
I do plan on tracking the car over the summer, sounds like I should go 8 pound flywheel?
Yep I like my 8lb prolite. They are good units. I know a number of others that run them and like them. It is not like the OEM is bad though either. After tracking the car a number of years and needing to replace the clutch I just decided to go with a lighter one.
And yep, my guide sleeve had a decent amount of wear on it and I replaced it when I did my clutch last time. It is cheap.
Yep I like my 8lb prolite. They are good units. I know a number of others that run them and like them. It is not like the OEM is bad though either. After tracking the car a number of years and needing to replace the clutch I just decided to go with a lighter one.
And yep, my guide sleeve had a decent amount of wear on it and I replaced it when I did my clutch last time. It is cheap.
Think I’m going to go with the prolite then. On a side note, do you know of anyone buying OEM parts from Ballade? I’ve heard their own products have been known to be cheaply made garbage but they’re selling genuine Honda OEM clutch kits for only 730 whereas the dealer wanted to charge me an arm and a leg.
Think I’m going to go with the prolite then. On a side note, do you know of anyone buying OEM parts from Ballade? I’ve heard their own products have been known to be cheaply made garbage but they’re selling genuine Honda OEM clutch kits for only 730 whereas the dealer wanted to charge me an arm and a leg.
I have not bought from them so will be careful on what I say other than just search the forum about them. Lots of negative reviews but again, I will let you make up your own mind. But there are various dealers of OEM stuff that you can get better deals from. You can get it even cheaper than ballade from Amayama if you dont mind waiting for overseas shipping.
I'm not sure where they're sourcing their parts in order to undercut stateside discount dealer sites.
Maybe they're buying their parts directly from American Honda (LOL) or more likely a Japanese Honda dealer??
They do state "Genuine Honda Parts" on their site. Which is pretty specific and I think legally has to mean that they're buying them from within the actual Honda dealer network. But I only play a lawyer on TV. So I'm not sure.
How much are the parts at hondaautomotiveparts.com or some other dealer? You said they want an "arm and a leg", but I also only play an organ trafficker on TV...so I have no idea what an arm or leg are worth in general. They also range from animal to animal. So I'm lost.
Think I’m going to go with the prolite then. On a side note, do you know of anyone buying OEM parts from Ballade? I’ve heard their own products have been known to be cheaply made garbage but they’re selling genuine Honda OEM clutch kits for only 730 whereas the dealer wanted to charge me an arm and a leg.
I bought a clutch kit (disc, pressure plate, throw-out & pilot bearings) from a seller in CA. The kit was total $400, shipped (May 2021) — and appears to be manufactured by the same company that supplies Honda. It took 3 days to arrive at my house.
Pressure plate.
Disc box.
A dealer bought the disc on the left. The disc from kit is on the right.
The kit's throw-out bearing.
The kit’s pilot bearing.
The flywheel was fine and only needed a light sanding. So, I kept the original 2007 flywheel.
I know last time I compared, the pressure plate, friction disc, guide sleeve, clutch fork, release bearing, and pilot bearing through Majestic Honda was about $1,100. You likely dont need the fork but I had priced it all. With a brand new OEM Flywheel it was about $1600. All in with new flywheel from Japan was about $800. That was about a year ago
it has the oem flywheel bearing,oem throwout bearing,oem exedy clutch disc and ...
The Exedy clutch disk is not oem. It also sucks. Badly.
Typically goes bad in about 20k miles. Always failing the same way, dropping a spring. Causes clutch to lockup. Can't make it home.
Exedy's excuse for using oem in the name is that its oem level of performance, of clamping force. In other words, for stock power levels.
That's fine, but the quality is not there. You can tell looking side by side how flimsy the spring baskets are compared to oem. Eventually spring breaks free from basket, jams things up.
But many people have been conned into using this disk, thinking its the actual oem part.
I bought a clutch kit (disc, pressure plate, throw-out & pilot bearings) from a seller in CA. The kit was total $400, shipped (May 2021) — and appears to be manufactured by the same company that supplies Honda. It took 3 days to arrive at my house.
Pressure plate.
Disc box.
A dealer bought the disc on the left. The disc from kit is on the right.
The kit's throw-out bearing.
The kit’s pilot bearing.
The flywheel was fine and only needed a light sanding. So, I kept the original 2007 flywheel.