Ah. My clutch woes continue as I try and get this thing to shift better. Still getting lots of resistance between most gears...especially 1st and reverse.

Now I'm turning my attention to the clutch interlock switch. As others have mentioned, the numbers listed seem on crack...no one has a clutch pedal out at 7.5" for measure F. Most are around 6.5-7" max.

My question...in an attempt to make 1st and reverse easier to engage, is there any harm in spinning the clutch interlock switch all the way out so the clutch has the maximum travel? Can the clutch pedal have TO much travel and wreck anything?

 

I did this without issue when my clutch was failing due to cheapo Exedy so called oem disk from po was failing, dropping a spring.

I didn't know why it was having trouble at the time. Didn't figure that out until dropped trans for discovery when it finally locked fully (fortunately not far away, able to limp home).

The extra throw helped greatly. For a while, until things got worse.

The real issue is how high pedal was compared to brake. Made footwork difficult. Not a sustainable long term solution. Don't want feet to get hung up in critical moment.

But as a diagnostic, it fine.

All that said, I don't recall exactly how high I went. How far out I loosened clutch interlock (which also acts as upper stopper for pedal throw). I know switch was still in place, not fully removed. But about as loose as possible.

 

What are your clutch woes?

Don't adjust something that's already properly adjusted.

 

Thanks guys for the replies :-)

I'm fighting a crappy 1st gear and reverse engagement as well as very forceful shift effort with all gears. This is a 'new to me' S2k...but with only about 40,000 miles on the odo (2002 ap1).

I've been going through everything I can shy of having to replace the clutch...changed out the slightly leaking clutch master, bled it about a billion times, adjusted the rod freeplay, greased the slave, etc. I'm thinking my clutch is toast, even with the low miles. Or at least I can't think of anything else.

First day I drove the car (before I tried any adjustments) I noticed the clutch engagement was very high on the travel...right near the end. I figured from day one that this clutch is probably toast. But it seems super strong...no slippage and will even chirp the tires into 2nd gear. With there was a sure fire way to diagnose the clutch, other than the engagement point. But because all the bleeding in the world, plus all the other parts I replaced leading to no improvement in shift quality...I'm thinking that what else can I change out other that the expensive clutch. (bang head on desk)

 

Did the bleeding process also involve new fluid as well ? Have to ask..

 

Engaging at the very top means that the clutch hydraulics are bled.

But the pushrod is over-adjusted.

However, if it is still rough to shift, it probably means the clutch is broken (not worn out, but broken). A spring has dislodged or something else is broken.

Is it an aftermarket clutch? If so...it needs to come out, unfortunately.

Since you have an AP1, my guess is that the orignal clutch was buzzing, so some uninformed person replaced it with an Exedy or similar aftermarket clutch. Which means for sure that its now broken.

The factory clutch, or a very few other "factory style" clutches are the only ones that work well in this car. Your safest bet is to buy the replacement at a Honda dealer like hondaautomotiveparts.com

There's a specific parts list. Ask for help here when you're ready to buy, and someone will point you in the right direction.

I wouldn't adjust anything else. You're going to make the issue more complex. The parts are properly adjusted from the factory and the car is not designed to shift badly.

So if you do make adjustments, only make them so that they meet the spec in the FSM.

 

Set the freeplay via Soviet’s video.

Adjusting the switch for more travel will only make it worse.

 

So I tried to test this theory. From what I understand, if a spring has dislodged or something else is broken in the clutch, with the car on jack stands and the car idling in 1st gear, the rear wheels would turn because the clutch is not full disengaged.

Does this test sound logical? If so, I tested this last night and at idle in 1st gear with the clutch in, the rear wheels do not move.

Let me know what you guys figure...

 

Your test was at idle, but your shifting issues are at some higher RPM.

Centrifugal force will cause the spring to force itself outward and possibly push against the PP/Flywheel more.

The effect of whatever friction the spring creates may also manifest as gear grind or rough shifting at higher RPM.

If you want to eliminate other factors, just be sure to adjust the clutch properly, get new Honfa MTF in the trans, and check/service the shifter mechanism.

You could also use a boroscope camera to check your clutch.

Again...if your clutch is aftermarket, it needs to be replaced. Easy elimination. Is it aftermarket that you know of?

 

I could trying rev'ing it up in 1st w/clutch in while on jack stands. You'd think if the springs are pushing against the PP/Flywheel in any regard, the rear wheels would turn even just a little. I'll try this tonight.

To be clear, my issue is more very high shift effort between gears, 1st and reverse are difficult to select, and this is more-so in lower rpm driving.

I started on the shifter service last night. Will do the new MTF this weekend and then report back.

I'm not entirely sure this is possible, is it? Where is the inspection port to insert the boroscope?

Really not sure. The car is new to me. But no clutch buzz in a 40k miles ap1...so 'perhaps' someone changed out the clutch. If it counts for anything, everything else on the car is OEM and the owner took great pride in that. With that, i'd assume (hope) the clutch (if it were replaced) is OEM. But that's just my guess.