I bashed a gear the other day when my clutch just stopped releasing. I thought it was the slave at first, but I inspected it and the bore is mirror smooth and it doesn't leak. I figured oh well and ordered a master cyl from majestic. Here I am 4 days later and I'm only getting just enough travel to get into gear.

-The push rod is screwed in to just before the reservoir valve closes.
-The slave was hand squeezed to bleed, and then the master was air-lock bled.
-I can get about 1-1/2" of fork travel.
-The clutch disk lightly rubs like sandpaper on wood every few shifts, but has just enough grab to keep slipping while clutch-out. At least I think it is. It may be mechanical damage, but it sounds an awful lot like friction material rubbing.


What do you guys think? Can a slave fail with no leaks? Is the spline shaft or fork fingers not lubed enough? I'm really stumped as to why it's not moving. Is my clutch fork moving enough and something else is wrong? Thanks.

 

tell ya what, im pretty stumped too, but i would get some lube and make damn sure that isnt it before i bought the slave cylinder. but i dont think that is the problem, i remember reading a while back about someone else having this issue, but i cant find the thread =/

 

Possible throw out bearing problem?

 

@whitebrad25:

Greased everything but the splines and gravity bled everything and still no go. I think I'm only getting about 1" of travel now. I was a bit optimistic the first time.

@essi1553:

Don't know, but I'm starting to think it's a clutch problem. The PP may be jammed.

Here's how much travel I get:



Sorry for he blur. I had to put a mirror under the car, push the clutch with one arm and snap it with my camera phone with the other.

 

It sounds like a failed pilot bearing. You press the clutch, the transmission main shaft gets pressed into the pilot bearing, but the bearing grabs the shaft and keeps spinning the transmission until the end of the shaft has enough taper to spin freely

 

I don't think that's it. The bearing is pretty new. It wouldn't explain the lack of fork travel.

 

sgtb, does it disengage only when the engine is off or not at all? is there more drag when the engine is on?

I'm leaning towards bad master or slave

followed by

shift fork jammed somewhere/pivot point screwed
TO bearing messed up
PP messed up
clutch disk broken?

 

I really don't think it's the cylinders now. I was second guessing myself, but the hydraulics of our clutch system are very simple. With the exception of the refill valve, no leaks = good system.

It does go into gear with the engine off obviously, but it's almost impossible to get into gear running due to the clutch grabbing. I'm guessing I have at least %25 engagement with the clutch in.

I've pretty much decided that the transmission has to come off.

I'm thinking it may be a bad PP, or the clutch has welded itself to the input shaft splines and isn't sliding off the PP enough to release completely. It could be the TO binding on the collar, but I'm not to sure that would be it. I'll let you guys know. I'm sure someone will run into this problem again.

Thanks for all the suggestions. Keep them coming.

 

Can you still press the pedal to the floor?
Do you feel more resistance at the end of the stroke?
Any extra noise from the clutch while the engine is running, or when you stop the engine?
1-1/2" of fork travel sounds like enough, the master & slave are about the same diameter (right?)

SgtB Posted on Nov 5 2010, 02:30 PM
You wouldn't be the first to find part of the clutch disk wedged somewhere stopping the clutch disk from sliding & breaking free from the FW.

Look at the bright side: you'll have the chance to lube the splines and the throwout & guide.
You'll never have crunchy shifts again.

 

True, I didn't read that part.