Do not use the upper hole marked 10ADC if you are measuring voltage, if you are lucky you just blow the fuse but on cheaper meters you might as well blow the whole thing.
In this case your battery is most likely dead though so there's not much that will happen.

 

If the battery is dead, why would the battery charger read fully charged? It’s a AAA battery and will be covered under warranty. It’s less than two years old. I’m going to check the other ends of the battery cables after work tomorrow. Replacement cables don’t cost much.

 

What battery charger are you using? How do you connect it?
What meter do you use? Show a picture off it when you measure the voltage across the battery terminals.
The information you are providing is very sparse so it's really hard to give any practical help.

 

Maybe try to jump or push start it? The battery fully charged part of the report isn't making a lot of sense to me - I would question that. Is it possible an interior light was left on? Door not fully closed, or something? That would explain this. Fuse blown doesn't make a lot of sense to me either given the sequence of events. The other thing that popped into my head is the immobilizer, but I don't think that would produce the symptoms here - the dash lights would come on I believe if it was the immobilizer. Right?

Is the battery old? EDIT - sorry - I see its just two years. It has all the signs of an interior light left on draining battery. Keep us posted!

 

Battery cable loose?

 

I'll bet after all this, the battery is dead.

Step one, do the parking lights come on?

 

My S2000 did this "out of the blue" one evening 15 months ago. Was able to get friends to push start me. Battery "measured" a perfect 12.6vDC. But was dead. Local Autozone load tested it and it was bad. New battery cured everything. Battery load meter is $21.

More Harbor Freight goodness:



-- Chuck

 

AAA came out and tested the battery. It was so bad, there was no doubt. Still under the prorated first 6-year warranty. 28 months old out of the 36 months left. Batteries in Phoenix just don’t seem to last more than two summers. With the thec’s power source, the old battery started, failed, started again and pulsed the engine like it was reving and then almost shutting off. A new battery and she started up healthy. Tests indicate that the alternator is doing its job. It took a few days. I appreciate everyone’s help along the way. My next tool is going to be a battery tester.

 

Our cars has a built in battery tester, just press the start button while you are measuring the voltage across the battery terminals.
If it dips down bellow ~10V it's bad.

 

Goodness, that seems ridiculous. Maybe try a different battery next time? How may miles was the car driven during that time?

Good news though. I'm glad it was that simple. Seems like if you have a car with no problems and you wake up one morning with zero power from the battery there is a pretty good chance the battery is toast.