i would leave it on and order a longer bolt. unless you have someone that can weld a nut back on.

 

You can knock the nut off and make sure the surface is flat (knock off any weld beads left behind and make sure the surface is clean and dry) and use a flange nut to get extra clampload. You can use a stock Honda bolt for the joint and I'm sure the dealer can get you a flange nut that would fit the bolt. When you torque it, torque it from the bolt side while holding the nut still. I've done this on several race cars where the weld nuts have rusted off and it hasn't been a problem.

 

oops. you're right. 10.9. fixed my post.

darcy

 

You are in the same position with it where you need a bolt that has a wider and smooth middle section and the threaded portion is smaller to fit the nut. You need a 10x 1.25 bolt, the bolt I listed above is 12 x 1.25 so it won't fit the lower shock.

I would find a bolt that is the same diameter as the middle section of the oem bolt, because the middle section is wider in order to fit the shock bushing. Then find a nut that fits the size of the new bolt that you need to use. Drill out the internals of the original nut that is attached to the shock so the new bolt slides through it, then double nut it, or you might be able to tap the original nut to the larger size of the new bolt. Get the new bolt long enough to fit whichever method you use. Alternatively if you could cut off the old nut and weld on a new one if you have access to equipment to do that, then just get a new replacement bolt from Honda.

 

I actually ordered a new bolt from honda today since they didnt have it in stock(should be in tomorrow)
I do not think that the oem bolt is long enough to add another nut to it without knocking off the welded one is it??
My friend who is helping might actually just let me use his stock shock so that would be ideal. This whole ordeal
arose from that stupid control arm not aligning with the holes in the shock. Such a pain in my butt every time. Just dont wanna mess his up as well hahahahah.

 

That sounds like a good way to go. Good luck with the new part.

 

I wouldn't double nut it since you need surface area to get the right amount of clamp load. Knock the weld nut off (usually it's only 3 weld beads holding it on), use a new OEM bolt and get a flange nut. You'll get the same clamp load as the weld nut and you're keeping the joint stress the same as designed.

 

Thanks guys.

 

Ok today I finally gotta chance to fix it. BIG thanks to Joey!! Here are some pics. Also the old bolt seems to have those "grooves" and the new bolt doesn't. I wonder why? Another thing I noticed while tighten the new bolt, it seems to pull on the welded bracket just a tiny little bit. I'm hoping it doesn't put too much stress on the bracket and crack the weld from the frame! I did put a tiny bit of anti-seize on the new nut too.
Thanks again Joe!!

 

Nice pics, I always wanted to snap some of mine but never got around to it. That is a great fix IMO. Those plates do have some flex to them, they will move just the same with the original nut in place.

I have three of those fixes on my car right now and they have worked great for a couple of years without issue. I recently checked the torque of mine and they were still torqued down to spec.