S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Coolant drain plug size

Thread Tools
 
Old Jun 21, 2005 | 06:13 AM
  #1  
elmmx5's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 6,667
Likes: 0
From: Crack house in Norton, MA
Default Coolant drain plug size

Hi, I'm looking at changing my coolant this evening and was wondering if anyone knows off hand what size socket I'll need to remove the engine coolant drain plug. I changed my diff and tranny fluid yesterday and was put in a bit of a spot when I needed a 24mm socket (I only had up to 21mm)) for the diff drain plug. I will be changing from green coolant to the honda type II (blue) and I really want to make sure it's changed thoroughly. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Reply
Old Jun 21, 2005 | 06:31 AM
  #2  
xviper's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 37,305
Likes: 18
Default

This thread may be of some help to you:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=86811

You don't really have to remove the engine block drain plug. You only need to be able to access the coolant on that side of the engine down low. The rad drain plug will access the coolant on that side of the engine via the lower rad hose. That link above shows you an alternative.
Reply
Old Jun 21, 2005 | 06:34 AM
  #3  
elmmx5's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 6,667
Likes: 0
From: Crack house in Norton, MA
Default

Thanks, I've read that thread, I've even printed it and the factory manual instructions up to have on hand while I do this. I guess I'm just stuck on doing it by the book even if it isn't going to gain me anything. It's a sickness really....
Reply
Old Jun 21, 2005 | 07:19 AM
  #4  
xviper's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 37,305
Likes: 18
Default

Originally Posted by elmmx5,Jun 21 2005, 07:34 AM
Thanks, I've read that thread, I've even printed it and the factory manual instructions up to have on hand while I do this. I guess I'm just stuck on doing it by the book even if it isn't going to gain me anything. It's a sickness really....
Fair enough. Since I didn't do it that way, I don't know the size of socket you'll need, but I can tell you this ...................................
Even with the right size, you will find it nearly impossible to get a wrench in there to turn that thing. And if you do, then getting a torque wrench back in there to tighten it down (it's a high torque bolt), will be nearly impossible to get enough of a turn on it to arrive at the proper torque. You may have to support the engine and remove the right engine mount to do it. This is why I didn't do it "by the book".
Maybe "SlowS2K" will see this thread and give you pointers on this.
Reply
Old Jun 21, 2005 | 04:31 PM
  #5  
Slows2k's Avatar
Former Moderator
20 Year Member
Community Builder
Liked
Loved
 
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 45,369
Likes: 428
From: Mother F'in TN
Default

It's a 19mm headed bolt. You'll need a very long 1/2 drive flex headed ratchet and a deep socket to reach it.(without removing anything) It's also in very tight.
Reply
Old Jun 21, 2005 | 04:49 PM
  #6  
elmmx5's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 6,667
Likes: 0
From: Crack house in Norton, MA
Default

Yup, it was in tight. I got it loose with a 18" 1/2 drive breaker bar, a 2" extension, and a 19mm socket. (I didn't have a 1/2" 19mm deep socket).
Reply
Old Jun 22, 2005 | 06:57 AM
  #7  
Squeezer's Avatar
Registered User
20 Year Member
 
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 2,307
Likes: 1
From: Jackson
Default

i got it off with a 3/8" socket wrench, 19mm socket, and 3" exenstion and a cheater bar.
Reply
Old Dec 28, 2008 | 12:54 AM
  #8  
jkuamoo's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,261
Likes: 1
From: Fullerton/Kaimuki
Default

Originally Posted by xviper' date='Jun 21 2005, 07:19 AM
Fair enough. Since I didn't do it that way, I don't know the size of socket you'll need, but I can tell you this ...................................
Even with the right size, you will find it nearly impossible to get a wrench in there to turn that thing. And if you do, then getting a torque wrench back in there to tighten it down (it's a high torque bolt), will be nearly impossible to get enough of a turn on it to arrive at the proper torque. You may have to support the engine and remove the right engine mount to do it. This is why I didn't do it "by the book".
Maybe "SlowS2K" will see this thread and give you pointers on this.
%100 correct.




since i have access to a lift and stands to support the engine, i went ahead and removed the motor mount.


its really tough to do it with everything there-partially because the bolt sits at an downward angle, it isnt perpendicular with the ground. be sure to support the ratchet and socket upon breaking the bolt loose, you dont wanna risk rounding off the bolt.


if anyone cares to know...


the torque specs on the engine drain bolt is 61 lbs ft and requires a 19mm socket and liquid gasket are recommended. the honda manual says to apply liquid gasket to the threads of the bolt and replace existing washer. i dont know if anyone else has done this...



but i have applied the liquid gasket and re-used the washer.






and please dont forget to bleed your coolant system properly. if you dont know how, there is plenty of info on the forum, and everybody's bleeding methods are almost identical. use the search button!
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
durtbikedude365
S2000 Modifications and Parts
6
Apr 11, 2011 09:24 AM
pputkowski
S2000 Under The Hood
10
Oct 20, 2008 11:31 AM
elmmx5
New England S2000 Owners
2
Jun 21, 2005 07:12 AM
JSR_AP2
S2000 Talk
1
Dec 4, 2004 03:46 PM




All times are GMT -8. The time now is 12:29 PM.